A mild but hearty broth anchors chewy, udon-like tapioca noodles, briny balls of minced shrimp, and shards of sweet crabmeat. $11. 1055 W. Argyle St., Uptown
Italy
Spaghetti al Pomodoro With Polpette di Pollo
Bar Roma
A bed of housemade spaghetti in a chunky tomato sauce cradles three substantial spheres of ground chicken flecked with pistachios. $25. 5101 N. Clark St., Andersonville
Indonesia
Mie Bakso
Minahasa
A street stall staple in Indonesia, this soup features delicate egg noodles and halal beef meatballs gently poached in beef stock fragrant with ginger and lemongrass. $6. 125 S. Clark St., Loop
Thailand
Kuay Tiew Rua
Immm Rice & Beyond
In this Bangkok classic (commonly called boat noodles), pork meatballs, sliced pork loin, rice noodles, and water greens bob in a broth enriched with pork blood and star anise. $12. 4949 N. Broadway, Uptown
Spain
Sopa de Albondigas con Fideos
Cafe Estrella
Mint-scented pork and beef albondigas, toasted fideos, and root vegetables lend heft to this soup from a new virtual kitchen. Cilantro, lime, and a tomato-chile broth add piquancy. $16 a quart. Order at @cafeestrellachicago on Instagram for pickup in Humboldt Park or delivery.
At this raw food restaurant, Carole Jones tosses kelp noodles (yes, the seaweed) with a creamy coconut-milk-based saffron sauce for a chilled noodle bowl with complex Indian flavors. $12. 210 N. Carpenter St., West Town; 1616 N. Damen Ave., Bucktown
Crispy Rice Noodles
Community Tavern
Joey Beato boils Thai rice flakes (which are large flat squares) to transform them into chewy, tightly rolled scrolls. A quick sear adds a slight crunch, and hearty lemongrass chicken ragù tops things off. $13. 4038 N. Milwaukee Ave., Portage Park
Pancit Bihon
Kasama
Genie Kwon and Timothy Flores dress up their Filipino pancit bihon, made with rice vermicelli, with poached shrimp and squid, sliced Castelvetrano olives, a dusting of sumac powder, and crispy chicharrón. $17. 1001 N. Winchester Ave., East Ukrainian Village
Stir-Fried Glass Noodles
Perilla
For his riff on traditional japchae, Andrew Lim stir-fries sweet potato glass noodles in tamari before tossing them in a rainbow of veggies, like mushrooms and scallions. Make it meaty with the addition of bulgogi. $12. 401 N. Milwaukee Ave., West Town
Gluten-Free Tagliatelle
RPM Italian
RPM Italian’s tagliatelle is made with a corn, rice, and tapioca flour from Italy’s Marche region. Get the hand-cut pasta in any of the pasta dishes; it’s great with the chile-flecked king crab. $20. 52 W. Illinois St., Near North Side
Noodle obsessions? I’ve had a few, from carbonara and cacio e pepe to sesame and soba. But nothing gets me quite as slurpy as liáng pí (cold skin noodles), which I first tried at the original Xi’an Famous Foods in Flushing, Queens. I loved everything about the dish: the spring-back texture of the noodles, the slick green veggies, the loofah-like wheat gluten sponging up the sauce. And that sauce! Red and oily, hot and numbing, vinegary enough to make those veggies think they were in a salad.
I’ve found a pretty good version at Shan Shaan Taste in Chinatown’s Richland Center. But once I realized I could make a facsimile of the sauce by goosing my favorite condiment — spicy chile crisp — I began trying to re-create liáng pí at home, with a little help from the Xi’an Famous Foods cookbook.
Finding the noodle itself isn’t easy. The thing is, liáng pí must be fresh: The starch is washed from a ball of dough, which is then flattened and steamed like a thin crêpe, ready to cut into ribbons. What remains is a clump of gluten to cube. I couldn’t get fresh liáng pí at 88 Marketplace, the well-stocked new Chinese market in Bridgeport, so I went home with a variety of substitutes. The springy sweet potato pappardelle recommended by the market staff were a passable substitute, but in the end the dried dao xiao mian (knife-cut noodles) were more to my tensile taste. For the wheat gluten, the packaged version I found ended up like sodden hardtack, so I took advice from the Woks of Life blog and subbed in fried tofu puffs (the Phoenix Bean brand is fantastic). But if the noodles require creative thinking, the dressing is as easy as it gets. As I tossed it all together with a final splash of vinegar and watched the chile oil stain the noodles, I was back in Queens.
(makes 4 servings)
In a bowl, mix 1/4 cup spicy chile crisp (available at H Mart), 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil, 1 tablespoon light soy sauce, 2 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar, 1 crushed garlic clove, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook 4 cups dao xiao mian noodles (available at 88 Marketplace), following package instructions. Add 2 cups bean sprouts to the water for the last 30 seconds, then drain noodles and sprouts and cool under cold running water. Cut 6 fried tofu puffs (available at H Mart) into thirds, and peel and julienne 1 cucumber. Coarsely chop a half bunch of cilantro (include some stems). Toss everything together in a large bowl, then adjust the flavors to your liking with salt, sugar, black vinegar, and light soy sauce.
When it comes to the morning meal, Peranakans — an ethnically Chinese people living in Malaysia, Indonesia, and Thailand — don’t mess around, as demonstrated by the bold-flavored dry pan mee noodles ($14.95) at the new Peranakan restaurant Kapitan (2142 N. Clybourn Ave., Lincoln Park). Owner Victor Low breaks down this breakfast favorite for us.
1. The Crunch
Imported from Malaysia, the fried anchovies “add a salty, crispy bite to the top of the dish,” Low says.
2. The Broth
Malaysian breakfast dishes often layer in flavors, and this anchovy broth adds lightly salty notes. “You can pour as much as you want into the noodles so they’re wet, or you can sip it on the side. It really puts the focus on the noodles.”
3. The Noodles
The silky wheat flour noodles are hand-pulled to order. Flat and thin, with a springy texture, they’re slicked in a double punch of soy sauce. “We use a regular soy sauce and a caramelized soy sauce we source from Malaysia that’s thicker and sweeter.”
4. The Meat
Minced pork is cooked with black fungus (“a popular ingredient in Asia that’s similar to mushrooms”), shallots, garlic, sugar, salt, and caramelized soy sauce for an umami-loaded topper.
5. The Accents
Chewy fish balls, hard-boiled eggs, and crunchy Chinese broccoli ensure that you won’t need to eat again until a very late lunch.
Italian pappardelle, Japanese ramen, Filipino pancit, Spanish fideos, old-school spaghetti and meatballs! Chicagoans are living in a global noodle paradise. Here’s your guide to the best, plus chef recipes, gluten-free options, and more.
The girl was in the back seat of a vehicle parked at a gas pump when she was shot in her face, police said. She was taken to Comer Children’s Hospital in critical condition at the time.
The man was shot in his groin area and returned fire but didn’t hit anyone, police said. He was taken to Christ Medical Center in Oak Lawn.
A weapon was found in the 12600 block of South Wentworth Avenue, police said. No one was in custody.
Start with the right flour. Bauer recommends Caputo 00, which you can find at Whole Foods. “ ‘Double zero’ refers to the grind, and it’s ultrafine,” he says. “You can use all-purpose flour, but double-zero flour will give you a smoother pasta. Bread flour is also a good substitute.” Mound two cups of the flour on a cutting board, make a well in the middle, and add three egg yolks. “Good egg yolks are important, so splurge to get really fresh local eggs.” Mix the yolks into the flour with a fork until a dough forms, then let the dough sit for a few hours in the refrigerator, which yields a softer, smoother result. Bring the dough to room temperature before rolling it.
2 Roll it out
On a floured surface, use a rolling pin to flatten out the dough until it’s thin enough to fit into a pasta roller (Bauer recommends the Marcato Atlas, or a KitchenAid mixer attachment). “Rollers squeeze the air out of the pasta, so you’ll want to laminate it, which means folding the pasta sheet over itself [and running it through the roller] a few times.” How do you know it’s ready? “When you drape it over the cover of a book, you should be able to read through it.”
3 Cut and cook
Slice the pasta into 3/4-inch-wide ribbons using a long knife. Then add it to a pot of generously salted boiling water and cook. “How pasta is cooked is very personal. I cook it for about four minutes, but test it by eating a piece — that’s how you know if it’s al dente enough.”
Or, Let the Pros Do the Work
Here are three more spots to pick up excellent fresh pasta.
Eataly
The pasta’s made daily at this Italian food emporium, and you’ll typically find noodles like tagliatelle and spaghetti alla chitarra. From $6.90 a pound. 43 E. Ohio St., Near North Side
Pasta Fresh
The venerable pasta shop features all manner of noodles — fettuccine, linguine, capellini, and more — in a variety of flavors, from classic egg to lemon, tomato, parsley, and even squid ink. $2.95 a pound. 3418 N. Harlem Ave., Belmont Heights
Tortello
The restaurant and pasta shop sells fresh bucatini, spaghetti, and other noodles, plus sauces and Parm. $9 a pound. 1746 W. Division St., Wicker Park
Literally “pork bone” broth, this rich, creamy style originated on the island of Kyushu, famous for its piggies. A bowl made with tonkotsu broth is usually called Hakata ramen, named for a noodle-tastic neighborhood in Kyushu’s largest city, Fukuoka.
Try it at Ramen Wasabi (2101 N. Milwaukee Ave., Logan Square). While excellent versions abound, the bowl here earns its richness with a deep and porky broth. $14
Miso
A specialty of Hokkaido, the northernmost of Japan’s main islands, this miso-seasoned winter rib-sticker typically has ground pork and loads of bean sprouts and shredded veggies.
Try it at Ramen Misoya (1584 Busse Rd., Mount Prospect). You can choose from three regional styles: Hokkaido (rich, savory), Tokyo (light, sweet), and Ise (deep, funky). You know you want the OG. $10.90
Shio
The name means “salt,” and this is the lightest and clearest of the three main broth styles (the other two being miso and shoyu). The basic chicken soup of ramen, it’s often prepared with a salty seasoning called tare that can be savory with dried seafood or bright with citrus juice or hot pepper (or both).
Try it at Kizuki Ramen & Izakaya (1482 N. Milwaukee Ave., Wicker Park). The yuzu shio ramen here is sunny and sharp. $13.80
Paitan
The word means “white soup,” and it technically refers to any broth, like tonkotsu, that is cloudy with fat and collagen from long-boiled bones. But most often, it refers to broths made with chicken — all the richness, none of the pig.
Try it at Ramen Takeya (819 W. Fulton Market, West Loop). Its version is like the white chocolate of the bunch: creamy and gentle. $14
Shoyu
This soy-sauce-based broth style can vary from gentle and sweet to dark and sardine-broth fishy. A lot of the more modern styles technically fall into this bucket.
Try it at Kitakata Ramen Ban Nai (1129 N. Roselle Rd., Hoffman Estates). The textbook shoyu broth highlights the terrific “hand crumpled” housemade noodles. $11.40
Tantanmen
This style references a specific Chinese specialty: Sichuan dan dan noodles. Typically red and oily, tantanmen contains black bean chile oil, sesame paste, and ground pork — think of it as the Sloppy Joe of ramen.
Try it at Aodake Ramen (21 W. Calendar Ave., La Grange). This spot serves both the traditional (wickedly spicy and rich) as well as a vegan version made with cabbage, kale noodles, and enough creamy sesame to give its broth body. $13 ($12 for vegan)
Tsukemen
This subspecialty, a.k.a. “dipping ramen,” has become a major thing in Japan and L.A. Thick noodles and toppings come alongside a separate bowl of deeply concentrated, salty broth, which works as a dip. (If you want to drink it at the end, add hot water.)
Try it atChicago Ramen (578 E. Oakton St., Des Plaines). It’s the house specialty; the broth is so thick it almost jiggles. $10.95
The first time I had yakamein was from the famous Yakamein Lady in New Orleans. She learned how to make it from her mother, and her mom learned it from her mother. Her version, with hard-boiled eggs and green onions, is really simple and good. Basically, it’s a mash-up of soul food and Chinese food, kind of a New Orleans version of ramen and pho.
Growing up in New Orleans, I’d find yakamein along second-line routes during Mardi Gras and on Frenchmen Street. It’s also known as a hangover cure since it is hearty and filling. People would leave the bars and go have a cup of yakamein.
You start with the beef — in New Orleans, it’s usually the beef you’d use for roast beef po’boys. You cook it down in a broth made with beef bones and soy sauce. Some people put hoisin or oyster sauce in there as well. And then your “holy trinity” — onion, bell pepper, and celery — which you find in a lot of New Orleans dishes. The noodle is usually spaghetti, which absorbs the broth and takes on that brown color — that’s when it’s best.
When I make yakamein at Ina Mae Tavern, I use extra bones to give the broth more body and a beefier taste. I want to stay true to the original flavors. I want you to have it exactly the way you’d have it down in New Orleans.
Jason Hammel’s Greek-inflected dish, based on a family recipe, has been a staple on the menu for over 20 years. The kit, which serves two, includes bucatini, feta, Parmesan, butter, garlic, and cinnamon — all the ingredients you (and your kids, since they can help) need to make the warmly spiced brown butter pasta dish. $18. 2537 N. Kedzie Blvd., Logan Square
A Date-Night Dinner: HaiSous Vietnamese Kitchen’s Chicken Pho
Thai Dang makes a mean bowl of pho, and his at-home chicken version may just become your go-to weekend warmer. The kit, which serves two, includes Dang’s famously flavorful broth, pulled organic chicken, rice noodles, scallions, and herbs, plus pickled onions, hoisin, sambal, and lime to garnish the soup to your liking. $24. 1800 S. Carpenter St., Pilsen
A Fancy Weeknight Upgrade: Daisies’ Mushroom Pappardelle
This kit, which serves four, will remind you why Joe Frillman’s fresh pasta program is such a standout. You’ll get a pound of his ready-to-cook, made-from-scratch pappardelle and a generous portion of his umami-rich mushroom ragù, which includes portobellos, porcinis, and mushroom concentrate, along with freshly grated Parmesan to finish it off. $45. 2523 N. Milwaukee Ave., Logan Square
