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Three New Spots Putting Their Spins on Jewish Deli Classicson March 25, 2021 at 4:15 pm

Rye Deli & Drink

25 S. Halsted St., Greektown

The twist Deli favorites with Middle Eastern and Texan influences
The skinny Billy Caruso has dipped into Jerusalem’s culinary melting pot, using, for example, labneh as a bagel spread (try the thyme and sea salt bagel slathered with charred strawberry and honey labneh) and making brik, a Tunisian pastry filled with potato and egg. His Austin, Texas, roots are on display, too, most notably with the pastrami, which he makes like the barbecue joints by giving a whole brisket (not just the flat) an extra-long smoke over oak and applewood. Try it in the Reuben with sauerkraut and Gruyère ($16).
Must order The matzo ball soup ($13), made with blue corn matzo balls, loaded with shredded chicken and veggies, and topped with a radish and herb salad

Jeff & Judes

1024 N. Western Ave., Humboldt Park

The twist Southern takes on deli classics, plus a standout bakery program
The skinny Ursula Siker grew up in Los Angeles, a city with a rich deli culture. She named this spot after her parents and took inspiration from their backgrounds (her dad comes from a Jewish family in Pittsburgh and her stepmom is from North Carolina). That means bites like a sweet potato and pimiento cheese knish ($8) alongside a thick corned beef Reuben on housemade marble rye ($18). Don’t miss the clever baked goods: Siker transforms her cinnamon challah into bread pudding ($8) and fills rye hamantaschen with cream cheese, red onion, and dill and crusts them with everything bagel spice ($7).
Must order The fried chicken sandwich ($10), an übercrisp thigh brined in buttermilk and pickling spices and dredged in matzo. It’s finished with mayo and bread-and-butter pickles and served on a potato bun.

Sam & Gertie’s

1309 W. Wilson Ave., Uptown

The twist Vegan versions (you heard right!) of deli staples
The skinny Andy Kalish may have named his restaurant after his grandparents, but the place is not exactly old-school. He re-creates traditional deli offerings like whitefish, corned beef, and chopped liver using beans, veggies, and other plant-based ingredients. Take his “pastrami,” which you can get with mustard on rye ($12.75) or as a Reuben (the Levin, $14.75); he combines wheat gluten with three types of beans (white, red, and garbanzo) to add texture and color, plus a secret seasoning blend that imparts a smoky, peppery bite.
Must order The Fishman ($13.75), a tangy smoked “whitefish” salad (made with hearts of palm, vegan mayo and cream cheese, green onions, and dill) on an onion bun with lettuce, tomato, onions, and capers

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Three New Spots Putting Their Spins on Jewish Deli Classicson March 25, 2021 at 4:15 pm Read More »

Was shaking hands ever a good idea?on March 25, 2021 at 4:31 pm

The Quark In The Road

Was shaking hands ever a good idea?

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Was shaking hands ever a good idea?on March 25, 2021 at 4:31 pm Read More »

Chicago Bulls pull off a shocking Nikola Vucevic tradeon March 25, 2021 at 3:48 pm

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Chicago Bulls pull off a shocking Nikola Vucevic tradeon March 25, 2021 at 3:48 pm Read More »

The Corn Dog Tastes Like Illinoison March 25, 2021 at 2:00 pm

There are many fine restaurants in Springfield. Saputo’s, the Italian bistro where former House Speaker Michael Madigan dined every evening at precisely 7 p.m., always sitting at the same table and drinking the same wine. Loukinens’ on 4th, where you can always be sure to spot legislators and lobbyists cutting deals over pan-seared Chilean Sea Bass. The last time I visited our state capital, though, I only wanted to eat at the Cozy Dog Drive In, the home of Illinois’s most important culinary innovation, the corn dog.

Illinois has a state snack food (popcorn), a state vegetable (sweet corn), and a state grain (corn). If the state had a hand-held meal, it would be the corn dog. The corn dog is Illinois on a stick: a hot dog, representing Chicago’s meatpacking heritage, wrapped in a cornmeal shell, representing the crop that carpeted over the prairie. Illinois grows 1.8 billion bushels of corn a year, second only to Iowa.

Surprisingly little of that corn goes into making corn dogs, though. Corn dogs are ubiquitous at the State Fair, sold at every other food stand on the midway, along with Lemon Shake-Ups. Every summer, the American stomach emits an enzyme enabling it to digest foods that would be inedible the rest of the year. The corn dog has, mostly, been relegated to the “fair food” category, along with funnel cakes, elephant ears, blooming onions, and chocolate-covered bacon. It’s not easy to find a corn dog in a restaurant, even in hot-dog crazy Chicago.

In 2018, the Tribune’s Nick Kindeslperger lamented that “if you want a corn dog, that battered and fried dish you eat on a stick, you’ll have to put in some real effort, and what you get might not be worth it…. As recently as six years ago, my current Tribune colleague, Louisa Chu, enthused on WBEZ about a “corn dog renaissance” in Chicago. But most of the restaurants either closed (Franks ‘n’ Dawgs, Wiener and Still Champion) or removed the corn dogs from their menus (Bangers and Lace, Old Town Social), leaving a handheld-fried-food hole in our scene.” 

After much searching, I located a corn dog at Wolfy’s, 2734 W. Peterson Ave., in West Rogers Park. However, it was a minor offering on a hot-dog heavy menu—undersized, and not especially crunchy. If I wanted a real Illinois corn dog, I was going to have to go to the source. That’s how I ended up at Cozy Dog. A kitschy diner founded in 1946, Cozy Dog advertises itself with an illuminated sign depicting two hot dogs in connubial bliss. Appropriately enough for a purveyor of an all-American meal, it’s located in a strip mall on Route 66, and sells highway memorabilia along with hot dogs.

Cozy Dog bills itself as the “Birthplace of the Corn Dog,” with a poster depicting a nurse feeding mustard to a baby corn dog. According to a handwritten history on the restaurant’s wall, though, Cozy Dog founder Ed Waldmire actually discovered the concept “at a roadside cafe in Muskogee, Oklahoma,” while driving from his hometown of Springfield to the army air base where he was stationed in Amarillo, Texas. Ed ordered “a row of 3 wieners laid down in a hot iron, covered with a batter, & closed up to cook.” 

Cozy Dog in Springfield Illinois
Cozy Dog in Springfield, Illinois, along Route 66.
Photograph: Chicago Tribune

That was certainly around when the delicacy took off. Proto-corn-dog molds emerged in the patent records in 1910, but for baking, not frying. (There’s your problem.) The act of consuming fried corn dogs really entered the historical record in the 1940s, in Florida, Oregon, Texas, Minnesota. A May 1940 ad for the Silver Dollar Restaurant, north of Ada, Oklahoma, described its corn dog as the “Sandwich Sensation Now—Different” and “Worth Driving Miles For.” (Ada’s just a couple hours from Muskogee.) Minnesota’s famous Pronto Pup was trademarked in 1942 — a Tribune writer described it in 1946 as the “postwar version of the hot dog.” Corn dogs were in the air.

Ed loved the corn-coated wieners, but thought the cooking time was too long for a short-order restaurant. When he returned home to Springfield after his discharge, he began tinkering with “a rack that would clamp a flat stick. The impaled weiner could then be dipped & coated in batter, then the rack (ultimately designed to clamp 3 “dogs”) set into a fryer — with the dogs submerged just up to the base of the stick.”

Thanks to that technological innovation, Ed could sell corn dogs as fast as he could fry ’em. After years of wartime rationing, they were a huge hit with a public “dying to try something new,” Ed told the State Journal-Register. “You could have sold anything then. And Cozy Dogs— at first we called them Crusty Curs—were the biggest thing to hit the State Fair then. We couldn’t make them fast enough.”

The name change helped secure the corn dog’s position in Illinoisana. Crusty Cur sounds like a seedy waterfront tavern, Cozy Dog a homey restaurant. Even after 70 years of success, Cozy Dog is almost pretentiously unpretentious. The menu is spelled out with plastic letters affixed to a grooved board, as at all real hot dog stands. A Cozy Dog is $2.25, a bargain even Downstate. I ordered one and took it to a booth by the window, with packets of mustard. In Illinois, we don’t even put ketchup on corn dogs.

The thrill of a corn dog is the gustatory contrast between the shell and the reward at the center. I bit into the crispy cornmeal batter, tasting a cereal sweetness, and then my teeth found the soft hot dog. I can’t say “juicy.” It wasn’t the plumpest, most succulent hot dog, but it didn’t need to be, since it was only doing half the work. As the meat and the meal mingled in my mouth, I struggled to come up with a word that described the combination of two so very different foods, impaled together on the same stick. I could only think of one.

It tasted like Illinois.

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The Corn Dog Tastes Like Illinoison March 25, 2021 at 2:00 pm Read More »

Being ‘woke’ is eye-opening. Being ‘awake’ is heart-opening.on March 25, 2021 at 1:00 pm

Cheating Death

Being ‘woke’ is eye-opening. Being ‘awake’ is heart-opening.

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Being ‘woke’ is eye-opening. Being ‘awake’ is heart-opening.on March 25, 2021 at 1:00 pm Read More »

2 dead in South Shore shootouton March 25, 2021 at 1:09 pm

Two men shot and killed each other during an argument early Thursday in the South Shore neighborhood.

An argument broke out and they both fired shots in an apartment in the 7600 block of South Kingston Avenue, Chicago police said in a statement.

An 18-year-old man shot in his face and abdomen died at the University of Chicago Medical Center, police said.

A 24-year-old man died at the scene with gunshot wounds to his chest, shoulder, hand and leg, police said.

The Cook County medical examiner’s office hasn’t released their names.

Police said two handguns were found at the scene. Detectives were investigating the shooting as domestic-related.

Read more on crime, and track the city’s homicides.

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2 dead in South Shore shootouton March 25, 2021 at 1:09 pm Read More »

Chicago Bears Draft: Taking a mid round swing on Stanford QB Davis Millson March 25, 2021 at 12:00 pm

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Chicago Bears Draft: Taking a mid round swing on Stanford QB Davis Millson March 25, 2021 at 12:00 pm Read More »

Chicago Cubs: Who will win the starting second base job?on March 25, 2021 at 1:00 pm

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Chicago Cubs: Who will win the starting second base job?on March 25, 2021 at 1:00 pm Read More »

Billie Jean King named strategic adviser on gender equality for First Women’s BankMadeline Kenneyon March 25, 2021 at 12:20 pm

BBC Sports Personality Of The Year 2018 - Red Carpet Arrivals
Bill Jean King was named a strategic advisor on gender equality for First Women’s Bank, the financial institution announced Wednesday. | Jeff Spicer/Getty Images

Tennis legend and fierce women’s rights activist Billie Jean King joined a new team this week, becoming an investor and adviser for a new Chicago-based bank hoping to close the the gender gap in access to capital.

Tennis legend and fierce women’s rights activist Billie Jean King joined a new team this week, becoming an investor and adviser for a new Chicago-based bank hoping to close the the gender gap in access to capital.

King was named a strategic adviser on gender equality for First Women’s Bank, the financial institution announced Wednesday.

“A critical step toward achieving gender equality is creating economic parity and financial inclusion, which requires closing the racial and gender gaps in access to capital,” King said in a statement. “I look forward to joining First Women’s Bank as we work to bridge those gaps and empower women from all walks of life to reach their full potential.”

First Women’s Bank, which is set to launch this summer, is an innovative women-owned, led and focused online bank that aims to provide more financial resources to female business owners, who often get passed over for conventional business loans.

The bank’s market research found 16% of all conventional business loans go to women-owned businesses.

“We are thrilled and honored to welcome Billie Jean to First Women’s Bank,” the bank’s president and CEO Marianne Markowitz said in a statement. “She is a legendary sports icon, an accomplished business woman and a devoted advocate for equality. Billie Jean’s support both as an investor and adviser will help us fulfill our mission to grow the economy and advance the role of women within it.”

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Billie Jean King named strategic adviser on gender equality for First Women’s BankMadeline Kenneyon March 25, 2021 at 12:20 pm Read More »