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L&M Parkside Brings Hyper-Local Fare and Tea-Smoked Cornish Hen to Lincoln SquareLynette Smithon August 26, 2021 at 2:00 pm

Lincoln Square has just gotten a new dining destination, and the neighborhood is embracing it. “We thought we’d start out with 80 covers a night, and we’ve never done anything below 100 since we opened,” laughs Justin Kaialoa, the executive chef at L&M Parkside, a sister spot to the excellent L&M Fine Foods market across the street. In a summer that hasn’t had a lot of big openings, it’s really not surprising that Parkside, with a hyper-local menu and approachable prices, is packed.

This is Kaialoa’s first executive chef gig, after a number of stints (and award nominations) at places like the Bristol and the Violet Hour. In fact, Kaialoa was in the process of redoing the food program at the Violet Hour when COVID hit last year. “We were going launch a tasting menu, and the next day the city closed,” he remembers. Their loss is Parkside’s gain, as Kaialoa’s menu brings a fine dining flair and attention to detail to this neighborhood restaurant.

What exactly does that mean? Take the chicken dish, a staple of every neighborhood restaurant. At Parkside, the tea-smoked Cornish hen starts with a traditional Southern sweet tea that’s combined with aromatic herbs and salt. The birds sit for 16 hours in the brine before being smoked over applewood and grilled over a Japanese-style binchotan grill. “Tea-smoked hen is not something I’ve seen in Chicago; it feels so aggressively Southern,” says Kaialoa. Another dish with a slightly less high-brow Southern influence is beef tartare served atop a hash brown with smoked tallow chimichurri, which took Kaialoa a year to get right. “It’s very velvety, the mouth feel is sensuous. It’s not like other tartare,” Kaialoa explains. That’s due to the addition of the smoked beef fat. The origin of the dish will be familiar to anyone who has spent time down South: “Where does this dish come from? Have you ever been to Waffle House at three in the morning?”

Southern flair is an undertone of a lot of items at Parkside, which isn’t surprising given that Kaialoa spent his formative culinary years in North Carolina. But that doesn’t mean diners should expect the menu to be dominated by heavy meat dishes; Kaialoa loves experimenting with vegetables. “A lot of our menu is vegan and vegetarian, not because I am, but because I find it interesting.” Take the carrot pate (yup, you read that right, carrot pate), served with pickled green strawberries. “At the end of the day, it’s just Jacques Pepin’s chicken liver mousse recipe, but we modified it,” Kaialoa says. Right now, to avoid over-taxing their limited staff, Parkside is only open for dinner. Expect a Southern-style brunch in the days to come, including a full program of housemade biscuits, and what Kaialoa promises will be the best shrimp and grits in town.

Parkside takes pride in “not cheating” as Kaialoa puts it — they’re making everything from scratch, culturing their own butter, making preserves, pickling, juicing, and trying to cut waste as much as they can. “Don’t throw those collard stems away, blanch and pickle them; if you’re juicing something, the byproduct is made into tea,” explains Kaialoa. “I’ve lived in Chicago for five years, I know what’s coming in the winter — we’re canning everything, so we’ll have peaches when it’s cold outside.”

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L&M Parkside Brings Hyper-Local Fare and Tea-Smoked Cornish Hen to Lincoln SquareLynette Smithon August 26, 2021 at 2:00 pm Read More »

Man charged with shooting FedEx driver in North CenterDavid Struetton August 26, 2021 at 1:21 pm

An Albany Park man has been charged with attempted murder after allegedly shooting a FedEx delivery driver Tuesday afternoon in the North Center neighborhood.

Alexandru Mihai, 19, was identified as the driver of a stolen Porsche who pulled up to a FedEx truck and fired at the 25-year-old employee around 2 p.m. in the 4200 block of North Western Avenue, Chicago police said.

The driver was shot in the arm and taken to Swedish Covenant Hospital in good condition, officials said.

The Porsche sped off but crashed about a mile away at Giddings Plaza, police said. One suspect was arrested and another was being sought. Two guns were recovered, police said.

Mihai faces a count of attempted murder, a count of possession of a stolen vehicle and a felony drug possession charge. He was expected to appear in court later Thursday.

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Man charged with shooting FedEx driver in North CenterDavid Struetton August 26, 2021 at 1:21 pm Read More »

How to Spend $600 at Hudson GraceLynette Smithon August 26, 2021 at 12:59 pm

As the postpandemic clock strikes Party Season, the housewares brand Hudson Grace sets up shop in Glencoe. Happy hosting, indeed. Tucked in near the town library and flower shop, Hudson Grace’s new boutique makes a fine, if restrained, first impression from the street. Inside, though, it’s a feast for the senses: The air is fragranced with the subtle aroma of fresh-picked flowers, a scent designed by cofounder and trained perfumer Gary McNatton; walls are splashed with ripe, juicy shades of citron, watermelon, and persimmon; and displays practically spill over with a curated assortment of chic wares. “It’s big and dramatic — when we do something, it’s a statement,” says Monelle Totah, who, with McNatton, launched Hudson Grace in San Francisco in 2012. Eight stores and a robust online following later, the two have earned a reputation for taking posh European tabletop classics and reimagining them for everyday use. “My taste is a little more collected and eclectic, and Gary’s is minimalist modern, so we always ask ourselves: Would this work in both of our homes? If yes, we go into production,” says Totah. That means you’re just as likely to find a baroque ceramic candlestick as you are a giant hardwood charcuterie board or a vintage silver ice bucket. “We love juxtaposition,” says Totah. Whatever your vibe, pop in for hostess gifts, pantry upgrades, glassware, or the transporting power of Hudson Grace’s delicately perfumed candles. 339 Park Ave., Glencoe, hudsongracesf.com

Photography: Courtesy of Hudson Grace

$175 for a set of 12

Spices

$195

Larder board

$175 for a five-piece place setting

Vintage Oro flatware

$22 each

Linen napkins

$14

Potholder

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How to Spend $600 at Hudson GraceLynette Smithon August 26, 2021 at 12:59 pm Read More »

The Return of CandymanLynette Smithon August 26, 2021 at 1:24 pm

This story was originally published in the September 2020 issue, before Candyman’s theatrical release was rescheduled to 2021 due to the pandemic; the movie will open in theaters August 27.

In the Illinois exurb where I spent my childhood, my dad’s cousin owned a movie rental shop called Video Vision. If I made the two-mile round trip by bicycle, I had carte blanche to rent any title other than those shelved beyond the saloon-style doors that led to the adults-only section. By the time I’d entered fifth grade, in the early ’90s, I had fallen in love with Chicago by way of VHS tapes. The Blues Brothers, Risky Business, Ferris Bueller’s Day Off — those movies made the big city 100 miles east of my tiny hometown seem like a place of untold thrills and comic misadventures.

Candyman was altogether different, something heavier and more mysterious. British director Bernard Rose’s 1992 cult classic, which spawned two sequels and a durable urban legend, got its hooks — or rather, hook — into me early and has never let go. The film, about the ghost of a long-ago lynching victim terrorizing the Cabrini-Green housing project with a very sharp prosthetic, was at once a nightmarish portrait of urban life, an alluring puzzle of mistaken identity, and the rare slasher flick to examine race and inequality in America. The year of the movie’s release, Chicago’s violence reached a grisly apex: 943 homicides and the highest per capita murder rate in the city’s history. The Chicago Housing Authority’s dilapidated projects had become the ultimate symbol of the dysfunction of the American “inner city,” a source of unchecked fear and paranoia around the issues of crime and poverty. And Cabrini-Green was the poster child, its towers looming in Rose’s film like so many haunted houses just beyond the Gold Coast.

When I first heard that Jordan Peele, the horror auteur behind Get Out and Us, was resurrecting Candyman in the form of a “spiritual sequel,” my fascination was reawakened, and I was suddenly compelled to look deeper into the original movie’s curious origins.

To get at the real horror behind Candyman, I knew I had to talk to Steve Bogira. Now 66, the veteran journalist covered race and poverty for the Chicago Reader from 1981 through 2016 (including during part of my tenure as the alternative weekly’s editor in chief). While Candyman’s credits say that Rose based his script on the Clive Barker short story “The Forbidden,” it was Bogira’s reporting on a chilling murder in one of the city’s housing projects that inspired what is perhaps the movie’s best-remembered detail: Candyman’s frequent mode of entry, a bathroom mirror.

The bizarre crime Bogira detailed occurred in April 1987, when a 52-year-old resident of the Grace Abbott Homes named Ruthie Mae McCoy was fatally shot by an intruder who entered her 11th-floor apartment through an opening behind the bathroom’s medicine cabinet. A police blotter item on the incident intrigued Bogira, and he began reporting on the case. He spoke to a janitor at McCoy’s building, who let him into the woman’s residence and introduced him to neighbors. What Bogira discovered was that for at least a year criminals in the Near West Side high-rise had been exploiting a flaw in the building’s architecture, breaking from one apartment into another through a narrow cavity between the medicine cabinets. “I was struck by the idea that not only was this a nightmarish, unreal crime that had happened to Ruthie Mae,” he says, “but these residents were living with this particular fear and nobody was doing anything about it.”

Compounding the dread was the fact that McCoy’s cry for help went basically unanswered. She dialed 911 and reported the break-in in progress. Two neighbors also independently called to report gunshots. It took officers almost a half hour to arrive. No one answered their knocks at McCoy’s locked door. A janitor tried a key that didn’t work. Eventually the officers left without entering. Nearly two days later, a CHA official found McCoy’s corpse decomposing on her bedroom floor.

Not long after Bogira’s 10,000-word feature, “They Came in Through the Bathroom Mirror,” was published in the Reader in September 1987, he got a call from John Malkovich. The actor had read the story while in town starring in Steppenwolf Theatre’s production of Lanford Wilson’s then-new play Burn This at the Royal-George Theatre. Malkovich thought the article had the makings of a movie. At a bar near the theater, Malkovich sat down with Bogira to make his pitch.

“He was genuinely interested in telling the story of the residents of the projects and how difficult their lives could be,” Bogira recalls. There was just one problem: In order to attract production financing, Malkovich told him, the film’s lead character would need to be a white reporter who would lead viewers into the world of the Chicago projects. “I let him know right away that I felt uncomfortable with that idea,” says Bogira, who is white. “You’re right,” Bogira recalls Malkovich replying. “Ideally the lead characters should be actors portraying Black project residents. But you’re not going to find someone to fund that kind of movie.” As the meeting wrapped up, Malkovich said he would gauge interest among Hollywood producers. The reporter never again heard from the actor. (My attempts to reach Malkovich to confirm Bogira’s account were not successful.)

Tony Todd as the eponymous supernatural killer in Bernard Rose’s 1992 film.

In 1993, some months after Candyman’s release, an editor at the Reader mentioned to Bogira that he had observed some striking similarities between the film and Bogira’s reporting on the Ruthie Mae McCoy murder. In the movie, University of Illinois at Chicago grad student Helen Lyle (Virginia Madsen) hears from a university janitor that a Cabrini-Green resident named Ruthie Jean has been brutally killed by an assailant who came in through her medicine cabinet. Helen interviews a neighbor of the victim, Anne-Marie McCoy.

“It was surprising to me that they changed so little,” Bogira says of the movie. Yet he suffered no great disappointment seeing his contribution go uncredited. “It seemed like what Malkovich and I talked about had played out: A film got made and a white person was in the lead.”

Ever since then, Bogira has assumed that his meeting with Malkovich somehow injected the story of the Chicago medicine cabinet murder into Hollywood’s bloodstream. But Candyman creator Bernard Rose told me a different story.

In 1990, Rose sold the Candyman concept to Propaganda Films, the risk-taking production company that had funded David Lynch’s Twin Peaks and Wild at Heart. He wrote an initial draft of the screenplay, moving the action of Barker’s tale from a Liverpool council flat to the Chicago projects. “I had been to Chicago a few times, but it wasn’t like I knew the city particularly well,” he says. “I asked that before writing the next draft, I’d like to go there and do some proper research and really get to know the city.”

When he arrived in July 1990, Rose and reps from the Illinois Film Office, accompanied by a police escort, toured Cabrini-Green and the Robert Taylor Homes. “The level of fear and anxiety around these places from the film commission people and the cops I found quite shocking, really,” Rose recalls. Later in the trip, he returned unaccompanied to eat dinner with a CHA resident. “Once the door was closed, it was just an apartment,” he says, “and a quite well-located apartment.” The two encounters informed the film’s ideas about the gulf that can form between perception and reality, and how that disconnect can curdle into bigotry.

While in town, Rose picked up a copy of the July 12 edition of the Reader in which Bogira’s follow-up to his 1987 investigative piece happened to appear. Titled “Cause of Death,” the feature posed the question “What killed Ruthie Mae McCoy — a bullet in the chest, or life in the projects?”

“Wow, here’s some serendipity!” Rose said to himself after reading about McCoy’s murder. “I’ve got to put that in the movie.” Aptly enough, in Candyman, Helen pores over newspaper microfilm, coming upon a story in the fictional Chicago Dispatch headlined “Cause of Death, What Killed Ruthie Jean? Life in the Projects.”

Later, when Candyman was in preproduction, Bogira received a vague letter asking him to serve as a consultant on a movie that would be shooting in the Chicago projects. “They offered me pocket change and a screen credit,” he says. “I responded, ‘Send me the script. If it’s not exploitative, I’ll consider helping you out.’ ” He never heard back. (Rose says he had no knowledge of the correspondence.)

No horror buff himself, Bogira hasn’t much pondered Candyman over the years. “I didn’t think about urban legends, because the urban reality of Chicago was so horrible,” he says. “You didn’t need to make things up to tell a story about something that had a lot of horror in it. This was real life for people that were living in high-rise public housing.” When I talked to Ben Austen, the author of High-Risers, a 2018 history of Cabrini-Green, he pointed out that it was exactly such “muddling of real and imaginary” that elevated Candyman above the typical horror fare — the conflation of the actual dangers of the Chicago projects and the trumped-up terror in the public imagination.

On October 13, 1992, three days before Candyman premiered in theaters, a gunman perched in a Cabrini high-rise shot and killed Dantrell Davis as the 7-year-old and his mother walked the 30 yards from their project building to the elementary school he attended. The killing made headlines nationally, sparking widespread outrage and paving the way for the CHA’s Plan for Transformation, which laid out provisions for the systematic demolition of Chicago’s high-rise public housing. The last Cabrini-Green tower was razed in 2011. The neighborhood is now filled with market-rate condos and has an indoor skydiving center.

This is where the new Candyman sequel, written by Peele and director Nia DaCosta, picks up. The film’s protagonist is a Black millennial artist named Anthony McCoy (Yahya Abdul-Mateen II), who resides in one of those lofty condos. Through a chance meeting with a resident of the sparsely occupied Cabrini row houses — the last vestige of the project buildings — Anthony hears of Candyman and introduces the lore into his art practice, inadvertently breathing new life into the supernatural slayer, whose existence, like all urban legends, hinges on a kind of collective belief.

And so, while the Cabrini-Green towers may be gone, the legend they seeded has proved harder to kill.

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The Return of CandymanLynette Smithon August 26, 2021 at 1:24 pm Read More »

Chicago Bears Roster: Predicting 4 surprises for final cutsRyan Heckmanon August 26, 2021 at 12:57 pm

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Chicago Bears Roster: Predicting 4 surprises for final cutsRyan Heckmanon August 26, 2021 at 12:57 pm Read More »

A dog named Oliver stays with us over the weekend and reminds me of an important lesson that humans must learnon August 26, 2021 at 1:00 pm

Cheating Death

A dog named Oliver stays with us over the weekend and reminds me of an important lesson that humans must learn

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A dog named Oliver stays with us over the weekend and reminds me of an important lesson that humans must learnon August 26, 2021 at 1:00 pm Read More »

Libido-Boosting Cannabis StrainsLynette Smithon August 26, 2021 at 12:48 pm

Datrianna Meeks Photograph: Lisa Predko

I’ve heard that certain strains of cannabis can boost libido. What should I be looking for?

There’s not much evidence that cannabis influences libido, but you’re right: Many people report experiencing increased arousal when consuming it. So while we can’t say for sure that weed will spike your desire, we do know it can help improve some of the things that might hinder sexual satisfaction.

Besides 1906’s Love Drops, which combine a handful of aphrodisiac herbs with THC, there aren’t many products in Illinois that focus on arousal. Anecdotally, strains like Wedding Cake and Blue Dream are said to be good for sex because they can produce euphoria and heighten the senses. Sativa, which is energizing, can also help get you in the mood. And if you find that you need something to be more calm and present, try a product with CBD.

Datrianna Meeks is a cannabis writer and educator.

Have a question for our budtender? E-mail [email protected].

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Libido-Boosting Cannabis StrainsLynette Smithon August 26, 2021 at 12:48 pm Read More »

Prostate Cancer Doesn’t Stopon August 26, 2021 at 12:13 pm

Getting More From Les

Prostate Cancer Doesn’t Stop

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Prostate Cancer Doesn’t Stopon August 26, 2021 at 12:13 pm Read More »

Release Radar 8/20/21 – Illuminati Hotties vs Mat Kearneyon August 26, 2021 at 12:30 pm

Cut Out Kid

Release Radar 8/20/21 – Illuminati Hotties vs Mat Kearney

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Release Radar 8/20/21 – Illuminati Hotties vs Mat Kearneyon August 26, 2021 at 12:30 pm Read More »

3 killed, 1 wounded in shootings in Chicago WednesdaySun-Times Wireon August 26, 2021 at 11:25 am

Three people were killed and one was wounded in shootings in Chicago Wednesday.

A man was killed late in Lawndale on the West Side around 11:40 a.m., police said.

Someone in a passing car opened fire as Franschon Davis stood outside in the 2700 block of West Flournoy Street, according to Chicago police and the Cook County medical examiner’s office.

Davis, 27, was struck in the back of his head and taken to Mount Sinai Hospital, where he died, police said.

Hours later, a 19-year-old man was killed in a shooting in Roseland on the Far South Side.

The teen was in an alley in the 600 block of East 106th Street when someone began shooting about 4:10 p.m., police said. He was struck in the chest and back and transported to Christ Hospital, where he was pronounced dead, police said. He has not yet been identified.

Late Wednesday night, a man was shot to death outside a Homan Square gas station.

The shots were fired from a gray car about 10:15 p.m. in the 3700 block of West Roosevelt Road, police said. The man, 36, suffered multiple gunshot wounds and was taken to Mount Sinai Hospital, where he was pronounced dead, police said. He hasn’t been identified.

At least one other person was wounded in a shooting Wednesday in Chicago.

A person was killed and four others were shot Tuesday in Chicago.

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3 killed, 1 wounded in shootings in Chicago WednesdaySun-Times Wireon August 26, 2021 at 11:25 am Read More »