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The buildings that survived the ‘red demon’Stefano Espositoon October 8, 2021 at 1:05 pm

The Water Tower, at 806 N. Michigan Ave., and the Pumping Station in the Gold Coast neighborhood. | Pat Nabong/Sun-Times

The Great Chicago Fire destroyed almost everything in its path. But at least four structures are known to have survived.

When the “red demon” swept across the city, destroying almost 18,000 buildings, some writers of the day said it was a reminder of human folly and of God’s might.

The fire destroyed almost everything in its path. But at least four structures are known to have survived. Divine intervention? A determined effort to save a cherished building? Location?

Or possibly just good fortune.

“The fire was so intense and so hot that nothing could really resist being burned. Nothing was safe. … The reason that these [buildings] didn’t burn is largely luck,” said Carl Smith, a professor emeritus of English and history at Northwestern University and author of 2020’s “Chicago’s Great Fire: The Destruction and Resurrection of an Iconic American City.”

One of the buildings that remained among the smoking ruins of the city was considered “fireproof,” but so were several that burned to the ground, Smith said. At least two other buildings that didn’t go up in flames were doused in water or covered in wet rugs by their owners — but that was a scene that played out across the city and almost always failed, Smith said.

“To this day, there is no such thing as a fireproof building; if it’s just hot enough, it will burn,” Smith said. “The twin towers are an example of that. The [Chicago] fire was so hot that it turned stone to powder, it bent metal, it melted glass.”

Unquestionably, the best known of the survivors — and one of only two that can still be seen today — is the Water Tower on Michigan Avenue. Made from solid limestone blocks, it was built to house a 138-foot-tall standpipe, used to relieve water pressure from the nearby pumping station, according to a Commission on Chicago Historical & Architectural Landmarks report from 1984. The tower was designed by noted architect William Boyington in a Gothic revival style.

During the fire, it perhaps helped that the tower was tall, skinny and stood alone. The pumping station, built in the same style, had a wooden roof that collapsed. The machinery inside was so badly damaged that the city’s water supply was virtually cut off for eight days, according to the commission report.

Detractors included writer Oscar Wilde who called the tower a “castellated monstrosity,” referring to the faux battlements, during a visit to the city in 1882. It’s been described as an “absolutely ghastly” building.

But Chicagoans have always loved the quirky little tower, even though the standpipe no longer functions. It’s been seen as a symbol of the city’s resilience.

It also survived at least two efforts to have it demolished — in 1906 and again in 1918, according to city records, the latter to make way for a widened Michigan Avenue; that’s why there’s a slight bend in the city’s best-known street as it passes the tower. In October 1971, almost exactly 100 years after the fire, the City Council made it an official landmark.

One downtown commercial building in the fire’s path, long since demolished, also survived the blaze: The Nixon Block, near the northeast corner of Monroe and LaSalle streets.

“Some of its woodwork was damaged, but the building-in-progress was largely unharmed. The extent to which its survival is attributable to a twist of fate or to its ‘fireproof’ construction of iron, brick, marble, concrete, and plaster of Paris is hard to determine,” according to greatchicagofire.org.

Pat Nabong/Sun-Times
The Newberry Library, 60 W. Walton St., stands where the Mahlon Ogden Mansion used to be.

Two homes survived; one was on the site of the current Newberry Library. It belonged to Mahlon Ogden, a prosperous lawyer, judge and brother to the city’s first mayor, William Ogden.

“Servants … covered it with rugs and wet down the rugs; that probably helped,” Smith said.

A tiny patch of greenery might also have helped.

“The park in front, a mere square, had been devoted to the city and Mr. Ogden many years ago; and it proved a valuable breastwork against the fire on this occasion, as if in acknowledgment of the wisdom and generosity of the gift and as a hint to other landlords to do likewise,” according to The Great Conflagration.

The other home, which survives today, sits in Lincoln Park at 2121 N. Hudson Ave. and was owned at the time by a Chicago police officer and his family. It was saved, according to the Great Conflagration, by “dint of much exertion” and a “favorable freak of the flames.”

As the fire approached, the officer, Richard Bellinger, tore up the wooden sidewalk in front of his home; he doused the building with water but eventually ran out.

“He stood his ground manfully, until the red demon approached threateningly near, and then he redoubled his efforts,” according to the book.

When the water ran out, he went to his cellar to retrieve a barrel of cider — or so the story goes.

“He rightly judged that the red guest who now threatened his house with a visit wanted the cider worse than he did. … The libation was poured out [in the right spots] and the home was saved.”

Mark Capapas/Sun-Times
The Bellinger House at 2121 N. Hudson St. in the Lincoln Park neighborhood.

The home’s current owner, Brayton Gray, is a professor emeritus at the University of Illinois at Chicago. He and his wife divide their time between Chicago and the south of France. The couple have owned the house since about 2005.

Most Saturdays, a tour group shows up in front of his home. The group stops and a guide gives a talk.

“I have no idea what he says,” Gray said with a chuckle. “I don’t go out and listen to him.”

Gray said he and his wife have made improvements to the house but not to the facade, which is protected by landmark status. He said the place is too big now that his children are grown and no longer live there. The couple is planning to put it on the market in the spring. When he bought it back in 2005, the asking price was about $1.5 million.

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The buildings that survived the ‘red demon’Stefano Espositoon October 8, 2021 at 1:05 pm Read More »

Private firms’ search for property records helped Chicago’s post-fire recoveryDavid Roederon October 8, 2021 at 1:01 pm

This image of a lithograph in Baird & Warner’S archives shows William D. Kerfoot’s famous building, said to be the first erected in the “burnt district.” It has an inscription dated 1917 to Wyllis Baird, then the company’s head, from Emil Rudolph, identified as one of the men in the image. The message reads, “Bye gone days.” | Courtesy Baird & Warner

With official records lost, local companies saved documents that proved crucial as the city rebuilt.

As the Great Chicago Fire spread north from downtown in 1871, Lyman Baird knew what he had to do. He left his home at Division and LaSalle streets and made his way downtown, against a tide of fleeing people so intense he had to ditch his horse and buggy.

Baird had to find out about his company’s property records. An early partner in the real-estate firm Baird & Bradley, known today as Baird & Warner, he knew Chicago’s courthouse was being consumed, and with it the documents proving who owned what in the frontier boomtown.

His own office was across LaSalle Street from the courthouse, and it too was a total loss. Flames kept him from investigating further and he headed back for home on foot. Company archives said he barely made it back across the river using the LaSalle Street tunnel, a conveyance that opened just a few months prior. The tunnel had filled with smoke and he crawled part of the way.

After a few days, the company safe was reached and determined to be cool enough to open. All the records were intact. The safe had been built into the office building’s brick foundation, said Lucy Baird, the company’s archivist, and Lyman’s great-great-great granddaughter. Those surviving records from Baird and other companies helped government officials reestablish property ownership after the fire.

“I think a lot of it was luck, honestly,” Lucy Baird said. “A lot of other companies, in some of our records, it says they opened their safe within a few days and the oxygen rushing in to the brick and metal that was still so hot burned all the records days after the fire.”

Newspapers at the time chronicled whether firms had found their documents. Chicago Title & Trust, also with roots that predate the fire, has in its files a Chicago Times article about the property records quandary. “The annoyance, calamity and actual distress that will arise from this misfortune are not yet properly appreciated. Something equal to the necessities of the case must be done quickly,” said a story from about three weeks after the fire.

Three firms that preceded today’s Chicago Title managed to save its records of Cook County land indices and abstracts. In one case during the fire’s pandemonium, a partner pulled a gun on a passing wagon driver to secure his services, according to company accounts.

In 1872, the Illinois Legislature passed the Burnt Records Act, ensuring that private company records could be used in court to establish ownership. It gave Chicago a legal basis for rebuilding.

The difficult business of matching owners to property was made easier by Chicago’s square and rectangular plats and sections, legal divisions relatively simple to reconstruct, said Dennis McClendon, a longtime cartographer here. Chicago’s grid system has its virtues.

For all its tragedy, the fire is well-documented as having powered the growth of Chicago and making it a center for experiments that advanced architecture.

Stephen Baird, CEO of today’s Baird & Warner, the state’s largest independent family-owned real-estate company, said the effect was profound. “The fire actually enabled the city to redesign itself away from some of the things that existed in East Coast cities.” Baird, Lyman’s second great-grandson, was thinking particularly of alleys, which in most of Chicago keep the public’s refuse off the public’s way. Other cities collect garbage in the street.

“It was an economically booming place at the time of the fire,” he said. “It became a place to rebuild a new city.”

Baird said the thinking about how to achieve a clean and orderly city got its full expression in Daniel Burnham’s 1909 Plan of Chicago. The document still has influence for its vision and values, even if some recommendations fell by the wayside.

But Lyman Baird could spare little thought of the future as he got back to his family that awful night, still unsure of the fate of his records. With flames hurling toward their home, the family got hold of a grocery wagon and filled it for an evacuation. They took a grand piano, a canary and a desk that sits today in the Baird & Warner offices at 120 S. LaSalle.

“It’s wild to think they would put a grand piano in there,” Baird said. The family made it up to a friend’s dredging yard on Goose Island and was safe, but their home burned.

After finding their records secure, the company sent out a letter to contacts, dated Oct. 12, 1871, in its archives. It spoke of devastation. “But it has not crushed the indomitable energy of our citizens, who are daily holding meetings to consider the question of rebuilding upon the ruins, and the preparatory work has, in many instances, already begun,” it said.

“Assistance will be needed to accomplish such a vast work, and the courage exhibited presents an inviting field for investment by those who have funds for that purpose.”

Out of that fire grew buildings and boosterism.

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Private firms’ search for property records helped Chicago’s post-fire recoveryDavid Roederon October 8, 2021 at 1:01 pm Read More »

Bo knows casinos? Bo Jackson joins investment group looking to open casino in Calumet CityMitchell Armentrouton October 8, 2021 at 1:00 pm

Bo Jackson, pictured at the White Sox fan convention in 2017. Jackson is part of an investment group aiming to open a casino in Calumet City. | Brian Hill/Daily Herald via AP file

“The thing we want to do is bring life back into the South Side of Chicago and the suburbs — make it a place where people want to go instead of avoid,” the two-sport legend and entrepreneur told the Sun-Times.

He knows football. He knows baseball.

But does Bo know casinos?

Two-sport pro legend Bo Jackson is trying his hand at the gambling game with a stake in a development group vying for a license to open a new casino in Chicago’s south suburbs.

The Heisman-winning running back and former White Sox slugger — and the face of one of Nike’s most famous advertising campaigns — has become an equity partner in the proposed Southland Live Casino, which is looking to hit pay dirt in Calumet City.

Jackson, 58, has made his home in the southwest suburbs since ending his groundbreaking athletic career in 1994. His business career has proven even more versatile, launching sports training complexes in multiple states, running packaging, food and marketing companies and — soon — rolling out a line of CBD products.

“I’ve never wanted to be known as a one-dimensional person. To me, it’s not cool to be known just for my sports career,” Jackson told the Sun-Times on Thursday. “I have a brain and a college education, and I try to use it to the best of my ability.”

Charles Rex Arbogast/AP file
Former NFL players Bo Jackson, second from left, and Willie Brown, third from left, talk to Oakland Raiders owner Mark Davis, right, before a game in Chicago in 2015.

But Calumet City would mark the first gambling venture in his wide-ranging portfolio. Jackson said he was drawn to the investment group because they’ve committed to partnering with nearby South Suburban College on a new hospitality management program.

“I want to help employ people. I want to get kids off the corner, into college and into a good job,” he said. “The thing we want to do is bring life back into the South Side of Chicago and the suburbs — make it a place where people want to go instead of avoid. Some people might look at this as a gaming casino. I’m looking at it as an opportunity for a lot of people, a lot of underprivileged kids.

“If we are allowed to do that, trust me — it will be done. I don’t blow smoke,” he said.

Jackson declined to say how large his stake is in the $275 million project, which is up against bids from Lynwood, Matteson and a site that straddles Homewood and East Hazel Crest.

Provided by Delaware North
Rendering of the proposed Calumet City casino.

All four are competing for a single casino license authorized for the south suburbs under a sweeping gambling expansion signed into law two years ago by Gov. J.B. Pritzker.

Regulators at the Illinois Gaming Board are expected to narrow the field to three after each group makes a public presentation at a special meeting next week. A winner is expected to be chosen by early next year.

Jackson’s investment makes the Calumet City pitch “a majority minority-owned limited liability company,” according to the group. About 53% of the investors are people of color, including 16% who are African American, 24% Latin American and roughly 13% Asian/Pacific Islander American, the group said in a statement.

Another key investor in the group led by gambling operator Delaware North is Naperville entrepreneur Daniel Fischer, who runs the chain of Dotty’s video gambling lounges — and who has already landed a new casino in Rockford.

Fischer also tapped some local star power to seal that deal, enlisting Cheap Trick guitarist Rick Nielsen and his trademark checkered Flying V to get officials behind the Hard Rock Casino Rockford, which will take its first bets at a temporary site opening later this month. The musician’s wife, Karen Nielsen, is one of the investors in that gambling mecca.

Mitchell Armentrout/Sun-Times
Cheap Trick guitarist Rick Nielsen performs before a presentation touting the Hard Rock Casino Rockford in 2019.

Fischer’s Rockford project won state approval despite a Gaming Board investigation of his video gambling empire. Court records stemming from a vicious ongoing legal battle between Fischer and a rival slot machine company showed regulators were considering disciplinary action against him earlier this year, though none has been handed down.

The Calumet City proposal calls for a 150,000-square-foot complex with an 18-story hotel at the River Oaks Center mall near 159th Street and Torrence Avenue. The group claims it’ll create 1,150 part- and full-time jobs when it’s up and running and generate $200 million in projected annual revenue.

Under state law, that would shake out to about $8 million in annual tax revenue for Calumet City, with another $6 million being doled out among 42 suburbs in the Southland region, where state lawmakers have been pushing to open a casino for decades.

Applicants for the south suburban casino, plus two others competing for a separate license in north suburban Waukegan, will make their final public pitches during a virtual Gaming Board meeting scheduled for 9 a.m. Wednesday.

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Bo knows casinos? Bo Jackson joins investment group looking to open casino in Calumet CityMitchell Armentrouton October 8, 2021 at 1:00 pm Read More »

150th anniversary of Great Chicago Fire marked by new museum exhibit, tours of cityMitch Dudekon October 8, 2021 at 1:25 pm

A painting of The Great Chicago Fire of 1871 that will be featured at the Chicago History Museum’s new exhibit “City on Fire ” that’s set to open Oct. 8 on the 150th anniversary of the fire. | Provided by the Chicago History Museum

The fire burned more than 3 square miles of the city, raged for more than 24 hours, killed about 300 people, burned more than 17,000 structures and left nearly 100,000 people without a home.

Cellphone videos of the Great Chicago Fire of 1871 would undoubtedly have blown up.

One viral clip might have shown a boy leading a goat through the flaming city while also somehow managing to push a wheelbarrow filled with precious possessions — only to pause for a moment to extinguish his mother, who caught fire.

Though the medium by which we absorb national tragedies wasn’t around, a letter the boy wrote describing the tale exists.

And it’s part of a new Chicago History Museum exhibit called “City on Fire: Chicago 1871” that’s set to open Oct. 8 on the 150th anniversary of the day the fire erupted in Catherine O’Leary’s barn.

The cow-kicking-a-lantern myth has been dispelled; no one really knows how it started, said Julius L. Jones, who oversaw the exhibit’s creation.

“Mrs. O’Leary was scapegoated,” Jones said. “She was part of a less privileged underclass who were blamed for all city’s social ills.”

A cowbell is included in the exhibit that was supposedly on the infamous O’Leary cow, though the item is a bit tongue-in-cheek because purveyors of fake O’Leary memorabilia were common after the fire.

There are plenty of other connections at the family-friendly exhibit.

A portion of the exhibit entitled “Will it burn?” confronts guests with an array of common household items from the era, some that survived the fire, and asks guests to ponder combustibility.

The porcelain head of a child’s doll? Will not burn. The doll’s cloth body? Will burn.

And then there’s the melted and fused stuff, like a beautiful multi-colored clump of children’s marbles, a mound of buttons that became fused in mortar and a keg of nails from a hardware store that fused together due to the fire’s intense heat.

Provided by the Chicago History Museum
A clump of blue and white pearl clothing buttons fused together with mortar during the Great Chicago Fire in 1871.

“Kids really get a kick out of that,” Jones said.

A large-scale reproduction of a painting depicting the breadth of the fire’s path across the city is the pinnacle of the exhibition. It will be on display for the first time in generations. The original was a main attraction during the 1893 World’s Fair, standing nearly 50 feet high and 400 feet long. It occupied its own building on Michigan Avenue for spectators to gather and observe.

The fire burned more than 3 square miles of the city, raged for more than 24 hours, killed about 300 people, burned more than 17,000 structures and left nearly 100,000 people without a home.

The Chicago Fire Department’s training academy, at 558 W. DeKoven St., sits on the site where the O’Leary barn once stood. A 30-foot-tall bronze sculpture of flames winding toward the sky that commemorates the event can be found outside the building. It’s entitled “Pillar of Fire.”

The Chicago Architecture Center created new bus and architecture tours to mark the anniversary.

“We certainly talk about the fire on a number of our tours, but it hasn’t been the main focus,” said Adam Rubin, who serves as director of interpretation for the center.

One stop on the bus tour will be St. James Cathedral, 65 E. Huron St., where singe marks can still be seen on parts of the building.

The center will also seek to provide additional layers of history and context to the city’s rebuilding efforts, which have been mythologized because they fit into a great story of a world-class city that quickly rose from the ashes, Rubin said.

“We’ve been mythologizing the fire for 150 years,” he said. “It brought a lot of interest and investment and made Chicago seem really strong and tough and able to do anything, and it fit into this sense of manifest destiny, and people really still bought into that in a big way at the time in the United States.”

Visitors to the center’s headquarters at 111 E. Wacker Drive can view a model of the city and a simulation of the fire’s spread through the use of flickering lights.

One place that’s fitting for anyone seeking to commemorate the event: Church of the Holy Name at 1080 W. Roosevelt Road.

The Rev. Arnold Damen, who founded the church, was in New York City when the fire started and received a telegram notifying him the church — just blocks from where the fire broke out — was in danger.

Legend has it that Damen prayed all night and pledged that if the church and his parishioners were spared, he would create a shrine to Our Lady of Perpetual Help and keep seven candles forever lit at the shrine.

The vow has supposedly been kept, though the flicker of electric flames now light the candles, according to Ellen Skerrett, who’s writing a book about the church.

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150th anniversary of Great Chicago Fire marked by new museum exhibit, tours of cityMitch Dudekon October 8, 2021 at 1:25 pm Read More »

Grundy County deputy in ‘very good shape’ after vest stops two of three bullets fired at him during traffic stop and chaseSun-Times Wireon October 8, 2021 at 1:17 pm

“We’re very, very lucky that the ballistic vest stopped those two bullets,” Sheriff Ken Briley told reporters Thursday night.

A Grundy County sheriff’s deputy was in “very good shape” Friday after his protective vest stopped two of three bullets fired at him during a traffic stop and chase, officials said.

“We’re very, very lucky that the ballistic vest stopped those two bullets,” Sheriff Ken Briley told reporters Thursday night.

The deputy had tried to stop a car on Route 47 and Dupont Road near the town of Mazon near Morris shortly after 5 p.m. Thursday but the car sped away, Briley said.

The car hit two other cars before coming to a stop near a railroad crossing at Grand Ridge Road in Mazon, he said. The suspect ran off and the deputy chased him.

The deputy got within an “arms length or two” of the suspect when he turned around and fired at the deputy, Briley said.

One bullet hit him in the forearm but the two others, which hit him in the chest and the back — were stopped by his bulletproof vest, the sheriff said.

The suspect was later arrested.

Before Thursday, a police officer had not been shot in Grundy County in 15 years, Briley said.

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Grundy County deputy in ‘very good shape’ after vest stops two of three bullets fired at him during traffic stop and chaseSun-Times Wireon October 8, 2021 at 1:17 pm Read More »

Chicago Bears: Their true identity will come out in the desertAnish Puligillaon October 8, 2021 at 1:00 pm

With the QB drama officially behind us, the Chicago Bears can start focusing attention on what really matters which is the games on Sunday. Justin Fields is set to make his third start on Sunday in the desert against the Las Vegas Raiders with the momentum of the season on his shoulders. I’ll be honest, I […] Chicago Bears: Their true identity will come out in the desert – Da Windy City – Da Windy City – A Chicago Sports Site – Bears, Bulls, Cubs, White Sox, Blackhawks, Fighting Illini & MoreRead More

Chicago Bears: Their true identity will come out in the desertAnish Puligillaon October 8, 2021 at 1:00 pm Read More »

ChicagoNow’s Best Posts of September 2021on October 8, 2021 at 1:04 pm

Margaret Serious

ChicagoNow’s Best Posts of September 2021

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ChicagoNow’s Best Posts of September 2021on October 8, 2021 at 1:04 pm Read More »

Bowhunting deer in Illinois: As season opened, a COVID-19 question, usual updates and a historical noteDale Bowmanon October 8, 2021 at 11:59 am

A mature Bureau County buck in a field this fall. | Jim Snaidauf

Coming off a season with a record harvest, Illinois bowhunters are back with a question on COVID-19 and deer and the more usual questions and updates on deer season; plus a delightful historical note.

It’s not surprising, COVID-19 impacts even deer hunting. In mid-summer, the United States Department of Agriculture’s National Veterinary Services Laboratories “announced confirmation of SARS-CoV-2 (the virus that causes COVID-19) in wild white-tailed deer in Ohio.”

That came ahead of bowhunting for deer opening Oct. 1, as usual, in Illinois, where 2020-21 produced a record bow harvest of 75,544. With deer hunting underway, I checked in with Dan Skinner, forest wildlife program manager for the Illinois Department of Natural Resources, on COVID-19 and other topics.

The USDA’s Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) announced results of a research study and gave advice on what COVID-19 and means for deer hunters.

“The information provided by USDA states that `There is no evidence that animals, including deer, are playing a significant role in the spread of SARS-CoV-2 to people,’ ” Skinner emailed. ” ‘Based on the available information, the risk of animals spreading COVID-19 to people is low.

” ‘Regardless, hunters should continue to use normal recommended food safety measures when field dressing and cooking their deer.’ “

As in, don’t handle or eat animals that appear ill or act odd; use gloves when field dressing; clean, dry and cool the abdominal cavity until processed; wash hands thoroughly after handling; wash and disinfect any equipment used in handling; and cook until juice runs clear and meat is no longer pink.

Details are at aphis.usda.gov/aphis/newsroom/stakeholder-info/stakeholder-messages/wildlife-damage-news/deer-sars.

COVID-19 impacts life around the world. On a much smaller scale, the legalization in Illinois of general crossbow use in 2017 impacted deer hunting. That includes for me. I am not alone in crossbows opening up bowhunting and expanding my world outdoors. I also understand hardcore bowhunters who prefer compound or traditional bows over crossbows.

In the 2020-21 season, Illinois bowhunters virtually split between the use of compound bows (approximately 49.6 percent) and crossbows (49.3), with use of traditional bows at 1.2, according to Skinner.

Dale Bowman
A file photo of a crossbow in the field in 2018; bowhunters are evenly split on use of crossbows or compound bows in Illinois.

As to the deer herd, he emailed, “Generally speaking, populations will be similar to those we observed going into the last hunting season. The Department will likely be adding two counties to the late-winter antlerless-only hunt in an effort to decrease populations that have continued to grow despite increases in permit quotas. We will continue to monitor the archery harvest and may need to consider additional changes to Administrative Rules in future years, especially if antlerless archery harvests continue to increase.”

In recent weeks, more reports came of hemorrhagic disease, generally called EHD.

“As of [Wednesday], our biologists have received reports from approximately 24 counties in central and southern Illinois,” Skinner emailed. “The combined total reported mortality from all counties is approximately 80 deer.”

Skinner had an aside on the changes since white-tailed deer reestablished enough to reopen deer hunting in Illinois.

According to the history of management at deer.wildlifeillinois.org, “Many newspaper reports of the day cited John Force of Chandlerville as the first person to legally kill a deer since 1900 when he bagged a 200-pound male with bow and arrow at 7 a.m. on October 1, 1957.”

That sets this up from Skinner.

“Just some trivia from 60 years ago: I was going through some old files and found a paper copy of our 1961 deer hunting rule,” he emailed. “We reinstituted the deer hunt in 1957, so 1961 represented the fifth modern deer hunt in Illinois. The shotgun season ran from December 1st to December 3rd and was open from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Pike County’s 1961 deer harvest total? 39 deer.”

In the two firearm seasons in 2020, Pike County harvest was 1,871.

Jim Snaidauf
A mature Bureau County buck on a trail cam this fall.

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Bowhunting deer in Illinois: As season opened, a COVID-19 question, usual updates and a historical noteDale Bowmanon October 8, 2021 at 11:59 am Read More »

‘Everything went wrong’ — the Great Chicago Fire at 150Neil Steinbergon October 8, 2021 at 12:42 pm

John R. Chapin’s engraving of Chicagoans fleeing across the Randolph Street Bridge during the Great Chicago Fire of 1871. | Associated Press

A century and a half after the fire that transformed Chicago and the people in it.

The summer of 1871 was terrible for Mary Todd Lincoln. Her adored younger son, Tad, 18, died in July, a month when no rain fell in Chicago, the city where the slain president’s immediate family moved after leaving the White House in 1865. Mrs. Lincoln, a woman heavily veiled in black who “suffered periods of mild insanity,” lived with her only surviving son, Robert, a lawyer, on South Wabash Avenue. By autumn, she sank even deeper into anguish.

“As grievous as other bereavements have been, not one great sorrow ever approached the agony of this,” she wrote to a friend on Oct. 4.

And then the city burned down around her.

One hundred and fifty years after the Great Chicago Fire, much about the epochal event that recast our city and its people is unfamiliar to current residents. Not one person in a hundred knows Abraham Lincoln’s widow lived here and endured the calamity, while the one thing many believe they do know about the fire, that it was started by Mrs. O’Leary’s cow kicking over a lantern, is a baseless ethnic slur, a scrap of mocking calumny preserved in amber like an insect’s leg, surviving all efforts to dislodge it. Even though universally agreed to be untrue, or at least unsupported by any evidence, the lie endures.

The most common causes of fires, the Chicago Fire Department had reported the previous March, were not cows or lanterns, but defective chimneys, carelessness with flame, and arson. There had been an average of four fires a day in Chicago the first week of October, started by tossed cigars, mischievous boys and oily rags bursting into flame.

This was a city heated by coal, lit by gaslight, strewn with hay. The sidewalks and even some fire hydrants were wooden. Blistered by drought, “the dust was almost intolerable, the ground became parched,” wrote Chicago Theological Seminary student William Gallagher. “A furious wind from the southwest had been blowing steadily all day Sunday.”

Whatever the cause, the fire certainly started in the barn behind the home of Patrick and Catherine O’Leary and their five children at what was then 137 DeKoven Street, on the city’s near Southwest Side. The hardworking O’Learys already had gone to bed. And they didn’t own a cow; they owned five, plus a horse and a calf. A drayman named Daniel Sullivan, out enjoying the evening, saw fire through the cracks between the boards of the O’Leary barn.

“Fire! Fire! Fire!” he shouted.

Sullivan went in the barn and untied the cows, thinking they would save themselves. They didn’t. He dragged the calf outside, badly singed.

A.H. AbbottPhotographer, via Wikimedia Commons
The O’Leary family home, at what was then 137 DeKoven Street. Though the Great Chicago Fire started in the barn behind their home, the winds blew the flames away from them, so their cottage survived the blaze. The Chicago Fire Department later built its training academy on the site.

Joseph Edgar Chamberlin, a 20-year-old reporter on the Chicago Evening Post, arrived almost immediately, about 9:30 p.m., Sunday, Oct. 8, 1871, to find himself in a part of town he had never visited before.

“I was at the scene in a few minutes,” he later recalled. “The land was thickly studded with one-story frame dwellings, cow stables, pigsties, corncribs, sheds innumerable; every wretched building within four feet of its neighbor, and everything of wood — not a brick or a stone in the whole area. The fire was under full headway in this combustible mass before the engines arrived, and what could be done?”

The fire engines — steam pumpers, drawn by teams of brawny horses — were delayed because the alarm was slow being turned in. A pharmacist refused the alarm box key to a resident who’d seen the fire. Mathias Shafer, the night watchman in the Cook County Courthouse tower, saw the orange glow but thought it was light from the gas works. When he did send an alarm, he sent the firemen to an address a mile and a half from the fire.

Later asked to describe what went wrong, one fireman would reply: “Everything went wrong.”

The alarm didn’t really matter, however. Firemen at a firehouse 11 blocks away saw the smoke and sent three pumpers, along with firemen who were already exhausted. The largest of 28 fires the previous week had been the night before, a huge blaze at the Lull and Holmes Planing Mill, 209 S. Canal St., that broke out about 11 p.m., burning up 7 million board feet of lumber and four blocks between Canal and the river.

It was 4 a.m. Sunday when that was finally gotten under control, and the firemen dragged themselves home to bed. Or didn’t. This being Chicago, they’d later be accused of celebrating their victory over the massive fire and arriving to the O’Leary home hung over or even still drunk.

Whatever their condition, they got busy. The strategy of firefighting then wasn’t so much saving burning buildings — a challenge with primitive equipment — but keeping fires from spreading from one building to another by soaking unburnt structures, or creating fire breaks, pulling down dwellings, or blowing up blocks in the fire’s path.

“Hang on to her, boys!” yelled Robert Williams, the chief fire marshal, as the head of the department was called. “She’s gaining on us.”

J. Paul Getty Museum
Clark Street, looking north from Harrison Street, after the fire.

‘Stand it as long as you can’

Chicago’s fire department had gone from volunteer to professional only 13 years earlier. Since then, Williams, who joined in 1848, had been begging the city for more resources, especially a fireboat. In vain. Also for more men; firefighting was hard, physical work.

“Marshal, I don’t believe we can stand it here,” one of the firemen said.

“Stand it as long as you can,” Williams replied.

But the fire leapt into the wind — strong enough to blow off a man’s hat — and flanked them. “Fire devils” — flaming vortexes — rose off the burning buildings, spun over the firemen’s heads and set fire to buildings a block away, on Taylor Street. The fire was so intense, it twisted their leather helmets out of shape.

“The heat was awful, ’twas like hell,” Williams testified later, insisting his men had not been drunk. “The fireman’s eyes were red with the dust and fire, so that many of them were most blind. The hair was scorched off their faces, and they stuck to their machines like bull dogs and worked until they couldn’t stand it any longer. Yes sir, and they did stagger, for they were clean beat . . . They were tired, too, from the fire the night before, and then to give the same men such a long pull again, why an iron man couldn’t have stood it.”

Residents of the area — called West Division, being west of the river’s southern branch — hurried toward the fire to watch. So many onlookers, they interfered with the work of the firefighters, who turned their hoses on the crowd, trying to disperse it. Add to that people in the path of the fire dragging their possessions into the street, trying to save them, and soon the area around the fire became blocked.

Across the river, in what is thought of now as the Loop, but then was South Division — south of the Chicago River’s main branch — residents were confident the river would protect them. Those who noticed a glow to the west shrugged and went to bed. Just another fire. But they didn’t sleep long. By midnight, the wind took a flaming board and flung it onto a building at Adams and Franklin.

Then, as now, this was the city’s commercial heart, home to hotels, banks, government offices, plus grand emporiums like Field, Leiter & Co., train depots, warehouses and grain silos. Employees tended to live nearby, and hurried to their workplaces. One bank clerk loaded $1.6 million into a trunk and headed for the lakefront. Another took $600,000 in a case and paid a wagon driver $1,000 to take him to the station.

The J. Paul Getty Museum
The ruins of Field, Leiter & Co.’s store, at State and Washington streets.

The night clerk at the seven-story Sherman House alerted five elderly women who lived there and got them on a cart. He thought. As it rolled away, he realized there were only four women on the cart. He raced back into the burning building, grabbed a fire axe and broke down the door of the last sleeping woman, soaked her dress with a bedside pitcher and conveyed her through the burning halls.

Three among thousands

At the Sheridan House, one guest who tried to sleep and failed was John R. Chapin, an artist for Harper’s Weekly, perhaps the most prominent publication in the country. He awoke to commotion in the hall.

“Listening for a few moments, and thinking it must be near morning, I composed myself to sleep again, but was restless, and my mind became gradually filled with a dread for which I could not account,” he later wrote in Harper’s. “At length, to assure myself, I rose and went to the window, threw open the blinds and gazed upon a sheet of flame towering 100 feet above the top of the hotel, and upon a shower of sparks as copious as drops in a thunder-storm. Niagara sinks into insignificance before that towering wall of whirling, seething, roaring flame, which swept on, on — devouring the most stately and massive stone buildings as though they had been the cardboard playthings of a child …”

Alongside the large institutions in South Division were smaller shops and private homes. At 119 Dearborn was the residence of John Jones. Let the flames illuminate a person who should be familiar to Chicagoans, but isn’t, a man declared “the most prominent” Black resident of Chicago by the Chicago Tribune.

Only about 1% of Chicago was Black in 1871. The Great Migration wouldn’t begin for 50 years. Jones had arrived in Chicago in 1845 with $3 in his pocket. He had been born free in North Carolina, but his white father died, and the man’s heirs conspired to enslave him. So Jones fled to Illinois, first to Alton, then Chicago, where he set up a tailoring business and thrived. He used his success to fight the Black Laws, Illinois codes restricting the rights of Black residents.

The J. Paul Getty Museum
Washington Street in downtown Chicago after the Great Chicago Fire of 1871.

Jones’ home became a hub of the Underground Railroad. Stephen Douglass was a houseguest, as was the wild-eyed abolitionist John Brown. Both Jones’ house and his business were destroyed, though the Black section of town — 39 homes and four churches in the 1870 census — would be largely unscathed.

Another Jones, Mary Harris Jones — no relation — was a white dressmaker who ran a shop on Washington Street. She had lost her four children and husband to the yellow fever epidemic in Memphis in 1867 and come to Chicago to start anew. Now she fled with thousands of terrified Chicagoans — the city population was about 337,000, roughly an eighth of today’s.

What to leave, what to save

Many faced the agonizing decision of what to try to save, then where to flee with it. Those in West Division fled west, toward the open prairie. Those in South Division fled east, to the lakefront, or south, pursued by the fire.

“Everybody was going in the same direction. Men, women and children loaded with everything you can conceive were blocking up the sidewalks,” Gallagher, the divinity student, wrote, in a 40-page letter to his sister. “Two strings of teams loaded up several stories high were hurrying westward towards the open prairie, and we stopped to see what they were carrying. Here comes a woman with all her bed and bedding on her back. Here was a little girl with her arms full of cooking utensils . . . One man was hurrying along with nothing but a flatiron in his hand, another had two or three pieces of old board, and so they went, hurrying, pushing, scrambling, crowding, jostling, shouting and laughing even.”

That last sentence sounds two common themes in accounts of the fire. Chicago’s poor did not typically leave records of their thoughts and activities. But the upper class did. And after recounting their own difficult decisions over what to save from their fine homes — financial documents, a portrait of a child, one man saved a scrapbook of his letters to newspapers — they often would pause to smirk at the nonsensical trifles the poor thought to take, forgetting that the flatiron that man carried might have been his wife’s livelihood. Poor people were described again and again carrying odd junk, as well as becoming unhinged, hysterically jubilating the fire, while the well-off handled the crisis coolly.

“Among those rich people I didn’t see one woman rushing about screaming and [w]ringing her hands. There was no crying or bewailing,” Gallagher wrote.

J. Paul Getty Museum
The remains of the Grand Pacific Hotel, on the block bounded by Quincy, Clark, Jackson and LaSalle. The hotel was rebuilt after the fire.

Then there was sin.

South Division contained “two or three blocks of pine rookeries,” known as Conley’s Patch, a vice district, and many accounts include descriptions of the prostitutes, barflies and fancy men, driven from their lairs, staggering amidst a foretaste of their eternal damnation.

“Ill-omened and obscene birds of the night were they. Villainous, haggard with debauch and pinched with misery, flitting through the crowd, collarless, ragged, dirty, unkempt,” wrote Elias Colbert. “Women, hollow-eyed and brazen-faced, with foul drapery tied over their heads, their dresses half-torn from their skinny bosoms, and their feet thrust into trodden-down slippers, moved here and there, stealing, scolding shrilly and laughing with one another at some particularly ‘splendid’ gush of flame or ‘beautiful’ falling in of a roof.”

Don’t believe everything they say they saw

You don’t need a master’s degree in sociology to detect a note of derision in that, and to wonder about its accuracy. Mrs. O’Leary’s cow is a warning, largely ignored, to view accounts of the fire with a certain degree of skepticism. The bovine arsonist can’t be the only fabrication. Victorian sensationalism runs through many stories — the woman kneeling in the middle of the street, clutching a crucifix, praying while her splayed dress burns. The nameless arsonists busily setting new fires, even as the city blazes, then later being hung en masse for it, though there is no evidence either situation actually occurred.

Yes, bartenders rolled barrels of whiskey into the street. Yes, the fire was met with chaos, lawlessness, looting, theft, robbery and a general sense that the end of the world had come. But those events were then colored by a lens of preconception.

The Victorians idealized childhood, for instance, and accounts are rich with girls running, their golden tresses aflame. “Hundreds” of separated children wailing for their parents. The fire was immediately viewed as a morality tale, filtered through class biases. Alexander Frear, a New York politician, was in town, and claimed he saw a “ragamuffin on the Clark-street bridge, who had been killed by a marble slab thrown from a window, with white kid gloves on his hands and whose pockets were stuffed with gold-plated sleeve buttons.” An arresting scene, until you pause to wonder how Frear knew what was stuffed in the urchin’s pockets. Maybe he used his imagination. Maybe he rifled through them. He was, after all, a politician.

Not that children didn’t find themselves separated and in trouble, as first-person accounts demonstrate. Claire Innes was 12. She and her father were part of a crowd trying to cross the Clark Street bridge. The bridges were choke points for South Division residents desperate to escape the flames.

“People began turning and pushing against us,” she later wrote. “There was no resisting the crush and we were swept along . . . I felt as a leaf in a great rushing river . . . The wind was terrible, like a storm, and filled with cinders and fire. I held up my hands to keep them from my eyes . . . When I turned, I could not find Father or Mother or my sister or brothers. I ran down the sidewalk after them, calling their names and searching everywhere for a familiar face. They were gone — into the smoke and dark and falling fire.”

Claire ended up trapped in an alley, fire cutting off her escape at both ends. She cowered under a pile of bricks, prayed and waited and didn’t find her family for two days.

J. Paul Getty Museum
The ruins of St. Joseph Church after the Great Chicago Fire.

A similar trial awaited Bessie Bradwell, 13, who donned her favorite dresses in layers before she left home with her parents — her mother grabbing the cage with the family’s pet bird as they left, unable to abandon it to the flames. Her mother and brother sought refuge at the lakefront, but her father, James Bradwell, a county judge, went to his office by the courthouse in an attempt to save his rare law books. Bessie went with him. It was also the offices of the Chicago Legal News, which her mother, Myra Colby Bradwell, had founded in 1868. The first woman to pass the Illinois Bar Exam, Myra Bradwell had been thwarted from becoming a lawyer by the bias of the time. Bessie picked up the heavy ledger recording the names and addresses of subscribers.

“‘This is a good thing to save, and I will take care of it,'” she recalled herself saying, years later. But in the confusion outside, she lost her father and fled on her own, strangers occasionally patting out fires from flying embers that had sprung up on her coat.

Judge Bradwell found her mother and brother on the lakefront.

“Where is Bessie?” were his first words.

“Why, I thought she was with you,” her mother replied.

“My father was sure I was dead,” the younger Bradwell remembered. “My mother, who was always an optimist, said ‘No, I’d trust that girl to go the ends of the earth — she’ll come out all right, don’t you worry.'”

Heroes, villains, victims

Accounts of the fire alternate between heroism and criminality. Residents load their possessions onto wagons, only to have them driven off by thieves, who themselves must toss away the loot they’d just stolen to save themselves. Some cartmen make heroic efforts to save family treasures; others charge outrageous fees, then ask for more two blocks away. Some Chicagoans ran into burning buildings to aid those trapped. Others looted the buildings as they burned. Several women described clutching boxes of their jewels, only to later hurl them away in their flight. Residents sometimes had time to bury prized possessions in their gardens — even stoves or pianos — and that strategy sometimes worked. Circuit Court Judge Lambert Tree was able to save his family silver that way, his only possessions to survive the fire.

At the courthouse, smoke filled the basement jail, and 150 prisoners screamed to be let free. But the jailer, who had received no orders, refused. Finally, the mayor sent instructions — the murderers were chained together and led north, while the rest were simply released. “They evinced their gratitude by pillaging a jewelry-store nearby,” an 1872 account observed.

J. Paul Getty Museum
The burned-out Cook County Courthouse after the Great Chicago Fire. It stood where the City Hall/County Building is now, on the block bounded by Washington, Clark, Randolph and LaSalle.

The courthouse was on the block bounded by Washington, Clark, Randolph and LaSalle, exactly where the City Hall/County Building stands today. By midnight, Mayor Roswell Mason was there, sending desperate telegrams to cit ies across the Midwest, requesting aid.

Across the street, Philip Sheridan was also busy telegraphing. The Civil War general had his headquarters here, managing the wars out West against Native Americans. (Originally based in St. Louis, he found that city too “forlorn” and moved to Chicago where, among other advantages, horses were cheaper.) Sheridan put out requests from the Army for tents and supplies. He also took charge of blowing up structures to create a fire break in the South Division, and the fire didn’t go much beyond Harrison Street.

Chapin, the Harper’s artist, positioned above the Randolph Street bridge, felt himself “a second Nero” watching the mass of humanity struggling below, eventually producing a dramatic lithograph. Historians generally remark on there being no photographs of the actual fire, but fail to add that this shouldn’t be surprising. There were no photographs of Civil War battles taking place either. It isn’t just that the cameras were bulky, but that they required long exposures. Those depopulated scenes of devastation might actually have had people in them, but they didn’t stand still long enough to be preserved on the film of the time.

The courthouse bell, 5 feet tall, pealed continuously until shortly after 2 a.m., when it broke free, plunging through the blazing tower, falling into the basement. If anybody within miles was still sleeping, that woke them.

By then, the fire had leapt the Chicago River again, into the North Division, where there were many stately homes, the Water Tower and the waterworks. Lill’s Brewery caught fire first. The fire was slow in catching hold, but train cars with kerosene exploded, and soon the fire was moving north faster than a person could run.

Chicago Daily News collection/Chicago History Museum
Image of a painting of the Great Chicago Fire by Edgar S. Cameron.

Survivors of the fire invariably spoke of how loud the conflagration was, the stupendous roar of the flames, the cries of fleeing residents, exploding barrels, crashing masonry, that tolling courthouse bell and terrified animals everywhere. A pet store burned before anyone thought to save its occupants, its birds and monkeys shrieking horribly within.

The hay used to feed horses flew aloft in pillow-sized chunks, the rain of burning debris so intense that John Tolland, keeper of the water intake crib 2 miles off shore, had to battle to keep the structure from burning, wetting it with buckets. The upside was he had all the water he needed. The downside was, if he failed, there was no escape. The choices would be to burn to death or drown.

The fire swept north to Lake View, then a separate town, destroying the waterworks, ending the losing efforts of firemen altogether by cutting their supply of water. Chief Williams was so shocked — it was supposed to be fireproof — he raced to confirm the fact himself then, in a lapse of self-interest that can be understood and perhaps forgiven, dragooned a squad of firemen to rescue the contents of his own home.

The Water Tower, at the base of Chicago Avenue, was, at 182 feet, the tallest structure in Chicago. It was scorched, but did not burn, though more buildings burned in the North Division than in the other two parts of town combined. Residents took refuge at the Sands, the beach north of the river, and in Lincoln Park, which was a Civil War cemetery in the process of being relocated. That only 300 people died — perishing in their beds or pushed off jammed bridges and drowned, or crushed by buildings collapsing into the street — was credited to the city’s layout, which encouraged flight.

“They had reason to thank the flat topography, and the square, open plan of the city for their delivery from being roasted by thousands in the flames,” Colbert wrote.

Early Tuesday morning, the rain came, only 30 hours late. William Gallagher, who had traded his Bible for a police badge, deputized to patrol the smoldering West Division after the fire had moved east, exulted to the heavens.

“Praise God from whom all blessings flow,” he shouted, hearing the rain, though immediately pausing to contemplate the “awful night for the people on the prairies.”

Almost 18,000 buildings were destroyed. Some 100,000 — nearly a third of the population — left homeless.

J. Paul Getty Museum
The Water Tower was among the few structures to survive the Great Chicago Fire.

Recover, rebuild, renew

The task of recovery began immediately. Mayor Mason established martial law, and while Chicagoans took great comfort in the presence of General Sheridan and his troops, violence was minimal and arson illusionary. After an Army sentry shot a lawyer returning home late at night, the military was withdrawn.

William Kerfoot put up a hovel and painted a famous sign: “W.D. Kerfoot Real Estate: All Gone but Wife, Children, and Energy.” Money and supplies and skilled workmen were arriving before the ashes cooled. In that loss were seeds of progress, for the city and for many living in it.

For instance, Mary Jones, the Memphis seamstress, who joined the refugees crowding the beach.

“The fire made thousands homeless,” she remembered. “We stayed all night and the next day without food on the lakefront, often going into the lake to keep cool. Old St. Mary’s Church at Wabash Avenue and Peck Court was thrown open to the refugees and I camped there until I could find a place to go.”

Next door, the Knights of Labor held meetings. Jones attended those meetings and became one of the countless Chicagoans whose lives were changed by the fire in unexpected ways. She would eventually become a familiar figure at union rallies and strikes, a fiery orator, always dressed in black in memory of her lost husband and children. Workers would call her “Mother Jones.”

Sun-Times file
Mary Jones survived the Great Chicago Fire, was inspired to become active in a burgeoning labor movement and eventually became known as “Mother Jones.”

“From the time of the Great Chicago Fire I became more and more engrossed in the labor struggle,” she later wrote. “I decided to take an active part in the efforts of the working people to better the conditions under which they worked and lived.”

The other Jones, the tailor John Jones, continued his push to influence the city that gave him freedom. That November, he ran on the Fire-Proof Ticket and was elected a Cook County commissioner, thus becoming the first Black elected official in the state of Illinois.

Like most common wisdom, the idea that it was the fire that boosted the city on to greatness is an oversimplification. Chicago was a boomtown, growing fast in size and reputation before it burned. “I wish I could go to America if only to see that Chicago,” Otto von Bismarck, then chancellor of the North German Confederation, had told Sheridan during his inspection tour in 1870. The Union Stockyards, and the bulk of the city’s manufacturing and business base to the South and West, were untouched. It was still the hub of rail traffic for the country, still a port.

Chicago’s rise from the ashes was complicated. The Panic of 1873 halted most major construction here for half a dozen years. Though even that calamity was not without benefit; it was the Panic, not the fire, that sent architect Louis Sullivan to Chicago.

The fire certainly cleared out the old city, leaving a blank slate for the creation of modern architecture.

Sun-Times file
The Union Stockyards, shown in 1948, were untouched by the Great Chicago Fire.

A major reason aid flowed so swiftly was Chicago’s reputation as a striving, hardworking town, thus in the Victorian mind worthy of charity in tough times. That calculus was applied to Chicago residents by the various boards and committees set up to distribute the world’s largess. Generally, relief was handed out based on who you were, not what you needed, and like sympathy, it tended to flow more to those who lost a lot, rather than to the most downtrodden who actually needed help. You had to deserve the help you got.

In England, a band of famous writers — Robert Browning, John Stuart Mill, Alfred Lord Tennyson — spearheaded an effort to rebuild the public library which they assumed Chicago had, and therefore had lost. In fact, there was no public library in Chicago but, receiving the donated books, the city was shamed into starting one, stuck in an abandoned water tank, starting a tradition of jamming our main library branch into odd public spaces.

Southern cities also sent scorn. Still bitter over losing the Civil War, they saw the fire as divine retribution for Sherman’s burning of Atlanta, or for the city’s notorious vice dens and saloons. “Chicago will never be like the Carthage of old,” one New Orleans paper opined. “Its glory will be of the past, not of the present, while its hopes once so bright and cloudless will be to the end marred and blackened by the smoke of its fiery fate.”

Most of the city’s Black homes were spared, enough that some would later say among themselves that the fire was divine punishment for the sins of white people. Though that perspective would be tested in the “Little Fire” of 1874 that gutted their community and a dozen blocks downtown.

All manner of deeds, tax rolls and official records were lost. Much early history of the city. Two janitors tried to save the original handwritten copy of the Emancipation Proclamation, which Lincoln had sent to the Chicago Historical Society to be used to raise funds during the Civil War. They reached it, wrapping it in a flag, but lost their bundle escaping the burning building.

General Sheridan also lost his papers and diaries, making his memoirs much harder to write, as he had to go by memory. But Chicago softened the loss in several ways: Sheridan married a local woman, half his age, and fans bought them their house when they moved to Washington, D.C., and later erected a statue of him alongside the major lakeside road named in his honor.

Sun-Times file
A statue of Gen. Philip Sheridan stands on Belmont Avenue, near DuSable Lake Shore Drive and Sheridan Road, named in the Civil War general’s honor.

Joe Chamberlin, the young Evening Post reporter first on the scene, would rise to become editor of the Chicago Times before moving back East to a successful career in newspapering, interviewing every president from Ulysses S. Grant to Warren G. Harding. He also met 9-year-old Helen Keller, and became her lifelong friend.

Myra Bradwell would flee to Milwaukee with the subscriber ledger her daughter Bessie had lugged for nine hours and publish her Chicago Legal News without interruption. Her quest to become a lawyer would not be as successful, meeting its end in 1873 with Bradwell v. Illinois, an 8-to-1 decision by the U.S. Supreme Court. “The paramount destiny and mission of women are to fulfill the noble and benign offices of wife and mother,” Justice Stephen J. Field wrote. At least the bird she rescued “lived to a good old age.”

Bessie Bradwell, by the way, did “come out all right,” just as her mother predicted. She graduated first in her class at Union College of Law (later Northwestern Law School). By then, unlike her mother, a woman could become a lawyer, and she did, also serving as assistant editor of Chicago Legal News after her mother’s death in 1894, and editor-in-chief for 20 years, until her own death in 1927.

Like Chicago, Robert Lincoln’s business interests were boosted by the fire. His home on South Wabash was beyond the burnt district, and while his office was destroyed, the vault was secure. Even losing his office proved to be a boon; lawyers whose buildings were intact invited those displaced by the fire to share their premises, and in this way Lincoln met Edward Swift Isham. They became partners in 1872, and their firm, Isham & Lincoln, was prominent in Chicago for over 100 years, until 1988.

Sun-Times file
Mary Todd Lincoln, photographed in Washington, D.C., by Mathew Brady in January 1862

The fire loosened Mary Todd Lincoln’s faltering grip on reality. She became terrified of fire and would point at smoking chimneys and declare the city was burning down. She stored her trunks at the Fidelity Safe Deposit Company, to protect them from the next conflagration, and once, on a premonition, sent them to Milwaukee for safekeeping. Her doctors warned her son that a woman in her condition might suddenly leap out the window, believing the house was ablaze. Robert Lincoln began legal proceedings against his mother, who was declared insane in 1875 and committed to Cook County Hospital.

The fire is often credited with improving the city’s zoning and building codes but, like Mrs. O’Leary’s cow, those were often more convenient fiction than significant fact, as much ignored as honored. Strict fire codes didn’t stop the Iroquois Theater from opening without fire ladders — upper-floor fire doors led out to nothing but a fatal plunge — or accessible exits or working fire suppression equipment backstage. About 600 people died when the Iroquois burned in 1903, making it the deadliest building fire in United States history until 9/11. Whatever other lessons the Great Chicago Fire taught, the importance of fire safety wasn’t one of them.

Not that people didn’t try. The International Fire Marshals Association time their Fire Prevention Week to coincide with the anniversary of the fire. This year it runs Oct. 3 through 9 and its theme, “Learn the Sounds of Fire Safety,” encourages people to know the difference between fire alarms and carbon dioxide alarms.

In a show of whimsy unusual for a municipal entity, in 1961 the Chicago Fire Department opened its fire academy on the spot where the O’Leary cabin stood. The O’Leary home was untouched by the fire, incidentally, since the wind blew the flames northeast from the barn, and the cottage was to the south. Some think this irony stoked resentment against them, and there can be little doubt the O’Leary slur will be passed on forever.

If you’d like to mark the 150th anniversary in a setting that owes its existence to the fire, you might consider a picnic in Grant Park. The area was a lagoon between Michigan Avenue and lakefront railroad tracks and became a convenient place to dump rubble from the burnt district. The park stands on that landfill, with the crushed remnants of the fire still underneath. Workers on a ramp to Lake Shore Drive in 2016 dug up charred bricks, timber and ash buried there since the fire. Upon such ruins a great city grew.

Mark Capapas/Sun-Times
Markers both inside and outside the Chicago Fire Department’s training academy, 558 W. DeKoven St., recall the history of the facility’s location.Mark Capapas/Sun-Times
The Chicago Fire Department’s training academy, 558 W. DeKoven St., now stands where the Great Chicago Fire started.

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