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The buildings that survived the ‘red demon’Stefano Espositoon October 8, 2021 at 1:05 pm

The Water Tower, at 806 N. Michigan Ave., and the Pumping Station in the Gold Coast neighborhood. | Pat Nabong/Sun-Times

The Great Chicago Fire destroyed almost everything in its path. But at least four structures are known to have survived.

When the “red demon” swept across the city, destroying almost 18,000 buildings, some writers of the day said it was a reminder of human folly and of God’s might.

The fire destroyed almost everything in its path. But at least four structures are known to have survived. Divine intervention? A determined effort to save a cherished building? Location?

Or possibly just good fortune.

“The fire was so intense and so hot that nothing could really resist being burned. Nothing was safe. … The reason that these [buildings] didn’t burn is largely luck,” said Carl Smith, a professor emeritus of English and history at Northwestern University and author of 2020’s “Chicago’s Great Fire: The Destruction and Resurrection of an Iconic American City.”

One of the buildings that remained among the smoking ruins of the city was considered “fireproof,” but so were several that burned to the ground, Smith said. At least two other buildings that didn’t go up in flames were doused in water or covered in wet rugs by their owners — but that was a scene that played out across the city and almost always failed, Smith said.

“To this day, there is no such thing as a fireproof building; if it’s just hot enough, it will burn,” Smith said. “The twin towers are an example of that. The [Chicago] fire was so hot that it turned stone to powder, it bent metal, it melted glass.”

Unquestionably, the best known of the survivors — and one of only two that can still be seen today — is the Water Tower on Michigan Avenue. Made from solid limestone blocks, it was built to house a 138-foot-tall standpipe, used to relieve water pressure from the nearby pumping station, according to a Commission on Chicago Historical & Architectural Landmarks report from 1984. The tower was designed by noted architect William Boyington in a Gothic revival style.

During the fire, it perhaps helped that the tower was tall, skinny and stood alone. The pumping station, built in the same style, had a wooden roof that collapsed. The machinery inside was so badly damaged that the city’s water supply was virtually cut off for eight days, according to the commission report.

Detractors included writer Oscar Wilde who called the tower a “castellated monstrosity,” referring to the faux battlements, during a visit to the city in 1882. It’s been described as an “absolutely ghastly” building.

But Chicagoans have always loved the quirky little tower, even though the standpipe no longer functions. It’s been seen as a symbol of the city’s resilience.

It also survived at least two efforts to have it demolished — in 1906 and again in 1918, according to city records, the latter to make way for a widened Michigan Avenue; that’s why there’s a slight bend in the city’s best-known street as it passes the tower. In October 1971, almost exactly 100 years after the fire, the City Council made it an official landmark.

One downtown commercial building in the fire’s path, long since demolished, also survived the blaze: The Nixon Block, near the northeast corner of Monroe and LaSalle streets.

“Some of its woodwork was damaged, but the building-in-progress was largely unharmed. The extent to which its survival is attributable to a twist of fate or to its ‘fireproof’ construction of iron, brick, marble, concrete, and plaster of Paris is hard to determine,” according to greatchicagofire.org.

Pat Nabong/Sun-Times
The Newberry Library, 60 W. Walton St., stands where the Mahlon Ogden Mansion used to be.

Two homes survived; one was on the site of the current Newberry Library. It belonged to Mahlon Ogden, a prosperous lawyer, judge and brother to the city’s first mayor, William Ogden.

“Servants … covered it with rugs and wet down the rugs; that probably helped,” Smith said.

A tiny patch of greenery might also have helped.

“The park in front, a mere square, had been devoted to the city and Mr. Ogden many years ago; and it proved a valuable breastwork against the fire on this occasion, as if in acknowledgment of the wisdom and generosity of the gift and as a hint to other landlords to do likewise,” according to The Great Conflagration.

The other home, which survives today, sits in Lincoln Park at 2121 N. Hudson Ave. and was owned at the time by a Chicago police officer and his family. It was saved, according to the Great Conflagration, by “dint of much exertion” and a “favorable freak of the flames.”

As the fire approached, the officer, Richard Bellinger, tore up the wooden sidewalk in front of his home; he doused the building with water but eventually ran out.

“He stood his ground manfully, until the red demon approached threateningly near, and then he redoubled his efforts,” according to the book.

When the water ran out, he went to his cellar to retrieve a barrel of cider — or so the story goes.

“He rightly judged that the red guest who now threatened his house with a visit wanted the cider worse than he did. … The libation was poured out [in the right spots] and the home was saved.”

Mark Capapas/Sun-Times
The Bellinger House at 2121 N. Hudson St. in the Lincoln Park neighborhood.

The home’s current owner, Brayton Gray, is a professor emeritus at the University of Illinois at Chicago. He and his wife divide their time between Chicago and the south of France. The couple have owned the house since about 2005.

Most Saturdays, a tour group shows up in front of his home. The group stops and a guide gives a talk.

“I have no idea what he says,” Gray said with a chuckle. “I don’t go out and listen to him.”

Gray said he and his wife have made improvements to the house but not to the facade, which is protected by landmark status. He said the place is too big now that his children are grown and no longer live there. The couple is planning to put it on the market in the spring. When he bought it back in 2005, the asking price was about $1.5 million.

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The buildings that survived the ‘red demon’Stefano Espositoon October 8, 2021 at 1:05 pm Read More »

Private firms’ search for property records helped Chicago’s post-fire recoveryDavid Roederon October 8, 2021 at 1:01 pm

This image of a lithograph in Baird & Warner’S archives shows William D. Kerfoot’s famous building, said to be the first erected in the “burnt district.” It has an inscription dated 1917 to Wyllis Baird, then the company’s head, from Emil Rudolph, identified as one of the men in the image. The message reads, “Bye gone days.” | Courtesy Baird & Warner

With official records lost, local companies saved documents that proved crucial as the city rebuilt.

As the Great Chicago Fire spread north from downtown in 1871, Lyman Baird knew what he had to do. He left his home at Division and LaSalle streets and made his way downtown, against a tide of fleeing people so intense he had to ditch his horse and buggy.

Baird had to find out about his company’s property records. An early partner in the real-estate firm Baird & Bradley, known today as Baird & Warner, he knew Chicago’s courthouse was being consumed, and with it the documents proving who owned what in the frontier boomtown.

His own office was across LaSalle Street from the courthouse, and it too was a total loss. Flames kept him from investigating further and he headed back for home on foot. Company archives said he barely made it back across the river using the LaSalle Street tunnel, a conveyance that opened just a few months prior. The tunnel had filled with smoke and he crawled part of the way.

After a few days, the company safe was reached and determined to be cool enough to open. All the records were intact. The safe had been built into the office building’s brick foundation, said Lucy Baird, the company’s archivist, and Lyman’s great-great-great granddaughter. Those surviving records from Baird and other companies helped government officials reestablish property ownership after the fire.

“I think a lot of it was luck, honestly,” Lucy Baird said. “A lot of other companies, in some of our records, it says they opened their safe within a few days and the oxygen rushing in to the brick and metal that was still so hot burned all the records days after the fire.”

Newspapers at the time chronicled whether firms had found their documents. Chicago Title & Trust, also with roots that predate the fire, has in its files a Chicago Times article about the property records quandary. “The annoyance, calamity and actual distress that will arise from this misfortune are not yet properly appreciated. Something equal to the necessities of the case must be done quickly,” said a story from about three weeks after the fire.

Three firms that preceded today’s Chicago Title managed to save its records of Cook County land indices and abstracts. In one case during the fire’s pandemonium, a partner pulled a gun on a passing wagon driver to secure his services, according to company accounts.

In 1872, the Illinois Legislature passed the Burnt Records Act, ensuring that private company records could be used in court to establish ownership. It gave Chicago a legal basis for rebuilding.

The difficult business of matching owners to property was made easier by Chicago’s square and rectangular plats and sections, legal divisions relatively simple to reconstruct, said Dennis McClendon, a longtime cartographer here. Chicago’s grid system has its virtues.

For all its tragedy, the fire is well-documented as having powered the growth of Chicago and making it a center for experiments that advanced architecture.

Stephen Baird, CEO of today’s Baird & Warner, the state’s largest independent family-owned real-estate company, said the effect was profound. “The fire actually enabled the city to redesign itself away from some of the things that existed in East Coast cities.” Baird, Lyman’s second great-grandson, was thinking particularly of alleys, which in most of Chicago keep the public’s refuse off the public’s way. Other cities collect garbage in the street.

“It was an economically booming place at the time of the fire,” he said. “It became a place to rebuild a new city.”

Baird said the thinking about how to achieve a clean and orderly city got its full expression in Daniel Burnham’s 1909 Plan of Chicago. The document still has influence for its vision and values, even if some recommendations fell by the wayside.

But Lyman Baird could spare little thought of the future as he got back to his family that awful night, still unsure of the fate of his records. With flames hurling toward their home, the family got hold of a grocery wagon and filled it for an evacuation. They took a grand piano, a canary and a desk that sits today in the Baird & Warner offices at 120 S. LaSalle.

“It’s wild to think they would put a grand piano in there,” Baird said. The family made it up to a friend’s dredging yard on Goose Island and was safe, but their home burned.

After finding their records secure, the company sent out a letter to contacts, dated Oct. 12, 1871, in its archives. It spoke of devastation. “But it has not crushed the indomitable energy of our citizens, who are daily holding meetings to consider the question of rebuilding upon the ruins, and the preparatory work has, in many instances, already begun,” it said.

“Assistance will be needed to accomplish such a vast work, and the courage exhibited presents an inviting field for investment by those who have funds for that purpose.”

Out of that fire grew buildings and boosterism.

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Private firms’ search for property records helped Chicago’s post-fire recoveryDavid Roederon October 8, 2021 at 1:01 pm Read More »

Bo knows casinos? Bo Jackson joins investment group looking to open casino in Calumet CityMitchell Armentrouton October 8, 2021 at 1:00 pm

Bo Jackson, pictured at the White Sox fan convention in 2017. Jackson is part of an investment group aiming to open a casino in Calumet City. | Brian Hill/Daily Herald via AP file

“The thing we want to do is bring life back into the South Side of Chicago and the suburbs — make it a place where people want to go instead of avoid,” the two-sport legend and entrepreneur told the Sun-Times.

He knows football. He knows baseball.

But does Bo know casinos?

Two-sport pro legend Bo Jackson is trying his hand at the gambling game with a stake in a development group vying for a license to open a new casino in Chicago’s south suburbs.

The Heisman-winning running back and former White Sox slugger — and the face of one of Nike’s most famous advertising campaigns — has become an equity partner in the proposed Southland Live Casino, which is looking to hit pay dirt in Calumet City.

Jackson, 58, has made his home in the southwest suburbs since ending his groundbreaking athletic career in 1994. His business career has proven even more versatile, launching sports training complexes in multiple states, running packaging, food and marketing companies and — soon — rolling out a line of CBD products.

“I’ve never wanted to be known as a one-dimensional person. To me, it’s not cool to be known just for my sports career,” Jackson told the Sun-Times on Thursday. “I have a brain and a college education, and I try to use it to the best of my ability.”

Charles Rex Arbogast/AP file
Former NFL players Bo Jackson, second from left, and Willie Brown, third from left, talk to Oakland Raiders owner Mark Davis, right, before a game in Chicago in 2015.

But Calumet City would mark the first gambling venture in his wide-ranging portfolio. Jackson said he was drawn to the investment group because they’ve committed to partnering with nearby South Suburban College on a new hospitality management program.

“I want to help employ people. I want to get kids off the corner, into college and into a good job,” he said. “The thing we want to do is bring life back into the South Side of Chicago and the suburbs — make it a place where people want to go instead of avoid. Some people might look at this as a gaming casino. I’m looking at it as an opportunity for a lot of people, a lot of underprivileged kids.

“If we are allowed to do that, trust me — it will be done. I don’t blow smoke,” he said.

Jackson declined to say how large his stake is in the $275 million project, which is up against bids from Lynwood, Matteson and a site that straddles Homewood and East Hazel Crest.

Provided by Delaware North
Rendering of the proposed Calumet City casino.

All four are competing for a single casino license authorized for the south suburbs under a sweeping gambling expansion signed into law two years ago by Gov. J.B. Pritzker.

Regulators at the Illinois Gaming Board are expected to narrow the field to three after each group makes a public presentation at a special meeting next week. A winner is expected to be chosen by early next year.

Jackson’s investment makes the Calumet City pitch “a majority minority-owned limited liability company,” according to the group. About 53% of the investors are people of color, including 16% who are African American, 24% Latin American and roughly 13% Asian/Pacific Islander American, the group said in a statement.

Another key investor in the group led by gambling operator Delaware North is Naperville entrepreneur Daniel Fischer, who runs the chain of Dotty’s video gambling lounges — and who has already landed a new casino in Rockford.

Fischer also tapped some local star power to seal that deal, enlisting Cheap Trick guitarist Rick Nielsen and his trademark checkered Flying V to get officials behind the Hard Rock Casino Rockford, which will take its first bets at a temporary site opening later this month. The musician’s wife, Karen Nielsen, is one of the investors in that gambling mecca.

Mitchell Armentrout/Sun-Times
Cheap Trick guitarist Rick Nielsen performs before a presentation touting the Hard Rock Casino Rockford in 2019.

Fischer’s Rockford project won state approval despite a Gaming Board investigation of his video gambling empire. Court records stemming from a vicious ongoing legal battle between Fischer and a rival slot machine company showed regulators were considering disciplinary action against him earlier this year, though none has been handed down.

The Calumet City proposal calls for a 150,000-square-foot complex with an 18-story hotel at the River Oaks Center mall near 159th Street and Torrence Avenue. The group claims it’ll create 1,150 part- and full-time jobs when it’s up and running and generate $200 million in projected annual revenue.

Under state law, that would shake out to about $8 million in annual tax revenue for Calumet City, with another $6 million being doled out among 42 suburbs in the Southland region, where state lawmakers have been pushing to open a casino for decades.

Applicants for the south suburban casino, plus two others competing for a separate license in north suburban Waukegan, will make their final public pitches during a virtual Gaming Board meeting scheduled for 9 a.m. Wednesday.

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Bo knows casinos? Bo Jackson joins investment group looking to open casino in Calumet CityMitchell Armentrouton October 8, 2021 at 1:00 pm Read More »

150th anniversary of Great Chicago Fire marked by new museum exhibit, tours of cityMitch Dudekon October 8, 2021 at 1:25 pm

A painting of The Great Chicago Fire of 1871 that will be featured at the Chicago History Museum’s new exhibit “City on Fire ” that’s set to open Oct. 8 on the 150th anniversary of the fire. | Provided by the Chicago History Museum

The fire burned more than 3 square miles of the city, raged for more than 24 hours, killed about 300 people, burned more than 17,000 structures and left nearly 100,000 people without a home.

Cellphone videos of the Great Chicago Fire of 1871 would undoubtedly have blown up.

One viral clip might have shown a boy leading a goat through the flaming city while also somehow managing to push a wheelbarrow filled with precious possessions — only to pause for a moment to extinguish his mother, who caught fire.

Though the medium by which we absorb national tragedies wasn’t around, a letter the boy wrote describing the tale exists.

And it’s part of a new Chicago History Museum exhibit called “City on Fire: Chicago 1871” that’s set to open Oct. 8 on the 150th anniversary of the day the fire erupted in Catherine O’Leary’s barn.

The cow-kicking-a-lantern myth has been dispelled; no one really knows how it started, said Julius L. Jones, who oversaw the exhibit’s creation.

“Mrs. O’Leary was scapegoated,” Jones said. “She was part of a less privileged underclass who were blamed for all city’s social ills.”

A cowbell is included in the exhibit that was supposedly on the infamous O’Leary cow, though the item is a bit tongue-in-cheek because purveyors of fake O’Leary memorabilia were common after the fire.

There are plenty of other connections at the family-friendly exhibit.

A portion of the exhibit entitled “Will it burn?” confronts guests with an array of common household items from the era, some that survived the fire, and asks guests to ponder combustibility.

The porcelain head of a child’s doll? Will not burn. The doll’s cloth body? Will burn.

And then there’s the melted and fused stuff, like a beautiful multi-colored clump of children’s marbles, a mound of buttons that became fused in mortar and a keg of nails from a hardware store that fused together due to the fire’s intense heat.

Provided by the Chicago History Museum
A clump of blue and white pearl clothing buttons fused together with mortar during the Great Chicago Fire in 1871.

“Kids really get a kick out of that,” Jones said.

A large-scale reproduction of a painting depicting the breadth of the fire’s path across the city is the pinnacle of the exhibition. It will be on display for the first time in generations. The original was a main attraction during the 1893 World’s Fair, standing nearly 50 feet high and 400 feet long. It occupied its own building on Michigan Avenue for spectators to gather and observe.

The fire burned more than 3 square miles of the city, raged for more than 24 hours, killed about 300 people, burned more than 17,000 structures and left nearly 100,000 people without a home.

The Chicago Fire Department’s training academy, at 558 W. DeKoven St., sits on the site where the O’Leary barn once stood. A 30-foot-tall bronze sculpture of flames winding toward the sky that commemorates the event can be found outside the building. It’s entitled “Pillar of Fire.”

The Chicago Architecture Center created new bus and architecture tours to mark the anniversary.

“We certainly talk about the fire on a number of our tours, but it hasn’t been the main focus,” said Adam Rubin, who serves as director of interpretation for the center.

One stop on the bus tour will be St. James Cathedral, 65 E. Huron St., where singe marks can still be seen on parts of the building.

The center will also seek to provide additional layers of history and context to the city’s rebuilding efforts, which have been mythologized because they fit into a great story of a world-class city that quickly rose from the ashes, Rubin said.

“We’ve been mythologizing the fire for 150 years,” he said. “It brought a lot of interest and investment and made Chicago seem really strong and tough and able to do anything, and it fit into this sense of manifest destiny, and people really still bought into that in a big way at the time in the United States.”

Visitors to the center’s headquarters at 111 E. Wacker Drive can view a model of the city and a simulation of the fire’s spread through the use of flickering lights.

One place that’s fitting for anyone seeking to commemorate the event: Church of the Holy Name at 1080 W. Roosevelt Road.

The Rev. Arnold Damen, who founded the church, was in New York City when the fire started and received a telegram notifying him the church — just blocks from where the fire broke out — was in danger.

Legend has it that Damen prayed all night and pledged that if the church and his parishioners were spared, he would create a shrine to Our Lady of Perpetual Help and keep seven candles forever lit at the shrine.

The vow has supposedly been kept, though the flicker of electric flames now light the candles, according to Ellen Skerrett, who’s writing a book about the church.

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150th anniversary of Great Chicago Fire marked by new museum exhibit, tours of cityMitch Dudekon October 8, 2021 at 1:25 pm Read More »

Grundy County deputy in ‘very good shape’ after vest stops two of three bullets fired at him during traffic stop and chaseSun-Times Wireon October 8, 2021 at 1:17 pm

“We’re very, very lucky that the ballistic vest stopped those two bullets,” Sheriff Ken Briley told reporters Thursday night.

A Grundy County sheriff’s deputy was in “very good shape” Friday after his protective vest stopped two of three bullets fired at him during a traffic stop and chase, officials said.

“We’re very, very lucky that the ballistic vest stopped those two bullets,” Sheriff Ken Briley told reporters Thursday night.

The deputy had tried to stop a car on Route 47 and Dupont Road near the town of Mazon near Morris shortly after 5 p.m. Thursday but the car sped away, Briley said.

The car hit two other cars before coming to a stop near a railroad crossing at Grand Ridge Road in Mazon, he said. The suspect ran off and the deputy chased him.

The deputy got within an “arms length or two” of the suspect when he turned around and fired at the deputy, Briley said.

One bullet hit him in the forearm but the two others, which hit him in the chest and the back — were stopped by his bulletproof vest, the sheriff said.

The suspect was later arrested.

Before Thursday, a police officer had not been shot in Grundy County in 15 years, Briley said.

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Grundy County deputy in ‘very good shape’ after vest stops two of three bullets fired at him during traffic stop and chaseSun-Times Wireon October 8, 2021 at 1:17 pm Read More »

Chicago Bears: Their true identity will come out in the desertAnish Puligillaon October 8, 2021 at 1:00 pm

With the QB drama officially behind us, the Chicago Bears can start focusing attention on what really matters which is the games on Sunday. Justin Fields is set to make his third start on Sunday in the desert against the Las Vegas Raiders with the momentum of the season on his shoulders. I’ll be honest, I […] Chicago Bears: Their true identity will come out in the desert – Da Windy City – Da Windy City – A Chicago Sports Site – Bears, Bulls, Cubs, White Sox, Blackhawks, Fighting Illini & MoreRead More

Chicago Bears: Their true identity will come out in the desertAnish Puligillaon October 8, 2021 at 1:00 pm Read More »

ChicagoNow’s Best Posts of September 2021on October 8, 2021 at 1:04 pm

Margaret Serious

ChicagoNow’s Best Posts of September 2021

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ChicagoNow’s Best Posts of September 2021on October 8, 2021 at 1:04 pm Read More »

Bowhunting deer in Illinois: As season opened, a COVID-19 question, usual updates and a historical noteDale Bowmanon October 8, 2021 at 11:59 am

A mature Bureau County buck in a field this fall. | Jim Snaidauf

Coming off a season with a record harvest, Illinois bowhunters are back with a question on COVID-19 and deer and the more usual questions and updates on deer season; plus a delightful historical note.

It’s not surprising, COVID-19 impacts even deer hunting. In mid-summer, the United States Department of Agriculture’s National Veterinary Services Laboratories “announced confirmation of SARS-CoV-2 (the virus that causes COVID-19) in wild white-tailed deer in Ohio.”

That came ahead of bowhunting for deer opening Oct. 1, as usual, in Illinois, where 2020-21 produced a record bow harvest of 75,544. With deer hunting underway, I checked in with Dan Skinner, forest wildlife program manager for the Illinois Department of Natural Resources, on COVID-19 and other topics.

The USDA’s Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) announced results of a research study and gave advice on what COVID-19 and means for deer hunters.

“The information provided by USDA states that `There is no evidence that animals, including deer, are playing a significant role in the spread of SARS-CoV-2 to people,’ ” Skinner emailed. ” ‘Based on the available information, the risk of animals spreading COVID-19 to people is low.

” ‘Regardless, hunters should continue to use normal recommended food safety measures when field dressing and cooking their deer.’ “

As in, don’t handle or eat animals that appear ill or act odd; use gloves when field dressing; clean, dry and cool the abdominal cavity until processed; wash hands thoroughly after handling; wash and disinfect any equipment used in handling; and cook until juice runs clear and meat is no longer pink.

Details are at aphis.usda.gov/aphis/newsroom/stakeholder-info/stakeholder-messages/wildlife-damage-news/deer-sars.

COVID-19 impacts life around the world. On a much smaller scale, the legalization in Illinois of general crossbow use in 2017 impacted deer hunting. That includes for me. I am not alone in crossbows opening up bowhunting and expanding my world outdoors. I also understand hardcore bowhunters who prefer compound or traditional bows over crossbows.

In the 2020-21 season, Illinois bowhunters virtually split between the use of compound bows (approximately 49.6 percent) and crossbows (49.3), with use of traditional bows at 1.2, according to Skinner.

Dale Bowman
A file photo of a crossbow in the field in 2018; bowhunters are evenly split on use of crossbows or compound bows in Illinois.

As to the deer herd, he emailed, “Generally speaking, populations will be similar to those we observed going into the last hunting season. The Department will likely be adding two counties to the late-winter antlerless-only hunt in an effort to decrease populations that have continued to grow despite increases in permit quotas. We will continue to monitor the archery harvest and may need to consider additional changes to Administrative Rules in future years, especially if antlerless archery harvests continue to increase.”

In recent weeks, more reports came of hemorrhagic disease, generally called EHD.

“As of [Wednesday], our biologists have received reports from approximately 24 counties in central and southern Illinois,” Skinner emailed. “The combined total reported mortality from all counties is approximately 80 deer.”

Skinner had an aside on the changes since white-tailed deer reestablished enough to reopen deer hunting in Illinois.

According to the history of management at deer.wildlifeillinois.org, “Many newspaper reports of the day cited John Force of Chandlerville as the first person to legally kill a deer since 1900 when he bagged a 200-pound male with bow and arrow at 7 a.m. on October 1, 1957.”

That sets this up from Skinner.

“Just some trivia from 60 years ago: I was going through some old files and found a paper copy of our 1961 deer hunting rule,” he emailed. “We reinstituted the deer hunt in 1957, so 1961 represented the fifth modern deer hunt in Illinois. The shotgun season ran from December 1st to December 3rd and was open from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Pike County’s 1961 deer harvest total? 39 deer.”

In the two firearm seasons in 2020, Pike County harvest was 1,871.

Jim Snaidauf
A mature Bureau County buck on a trail cam this fall.

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Bowhunting deer in Illinois: As season opened, a COVID-19 question, usual updates and a historical noteDale Bowmanon October 8, 2021 at 11:59 am Read More »

How the Great Fire changed Chicago architectureLee Beyon October 8, 2021 at 12:51 pm

Rebuilding the Marine Building, located on the northeast corner of Lake and LaSalle Streets, after its destruction during the GReat Chicago Fire of 1871. | Chicago History Museum, ICHi-002845; Copelin & Hine, photographer

The Great Chicago Fire of 1871 — terrible, costly, deadly — changed the city in myriad ways. And it had a big hand in making Chicago an architectural capital.

It’s been 150 years since the last embers from the Great Fire flickered out, leaving behind a smoldering city with the will and the money to rebuild.

And it did. Chicago virtually remade itself within 20 years. New buildings sprang up downtown and in other areas ravaged by the conflagration. Millions of tons of rubble from the fire were dumped into the lake, creating landfill that would be planted and reshaped into Grant Park and portions of Burnham Park, just south of current day Roosevelt Road.

Confident and reenergized, Chicago in 1889 annexed the 125-square-mile crescent of townships around the edges of the city. In one sweep, Chicago tripled in physical size, picked up 225,000 new residents.

The Great Chicago Fire of 1871 — terrible, costly, deadly — changed the city in myriad ways. And it had a big hand in making Chicago an architectural capital.

The fire altered the way we constructed buildings and protected them from fire. The blaze shaped the planning and development of neighborhoods as populations moved to join those who were forming and populating new communities outside of the fire zone.

“There was a feeling among historians that everyone knows about the fire and ‘yeah it was bad, but it didn’t change the city much,’ and the fire has been exaggerated in Chicago history,” said D. Bradford Hunt, professor and chairman of the history department at Loyola University Chicago.

“But the Great Fire transformed lives in Chicago and gave the city [a reputation as] a place of renewal, progress and great possibilities,” he said, referencing an entry on the fire in the Encyclopedia of Chicago.

For better and for worse, this is true. Skyscrapers, fire-resistant buildings, breathtaking architecture and the eye-popping structures of the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition came in the decades following the fire — and were writ deeply into the city’s genetic code.

But, arguably, so was the city’s tendency to clear away entire neighborhoods, often with haste, and build new, to barrel expressways through communities or plant the first McCormick Place convention center building right on the lakefront.

Said author Dominic Pacyga, professor emeritus of history at Columbia College Chicago: “The fire was really Chicago’s first urban renewal project.”

In a ‘fireproof’ city, terra cotta is king

The Great Fire, like many major historic events, gave birth to a myth: That after the fire, Chicago — particularly its downtown –immediately became a new city of early skyscrapers and fireproof buildings.

Those things did happen, but it took a while. The city’s first real skyscraper, the 10-story, steel-framed Home Insurance Building at Adams and LaSalle streets didn’t come along until 1885, almost a decade and a half after the fire.

And while most commercial buildings and other structures within the 2,100-acre fire zone were rebuilt in fire resistant materials such as brick, stone or terra cotta cladding, temporary buildings made from wood were also allowed.

Which isn’t to say that building a fireproof city wasn’t the goal. Chicago Tribune Publisher Joseph Medill ran for mayor under the Union-Fireproof Party — the election was a month after the fire — and won nearly 73% of the vote.

“No more fires, because we’re going to build only with brick and stone,” Hunt said. “Medill runs on that platform. He wins on that platform.”

Ironically, brick and stone buildings were also lost or ruined in the fire. The blaze was hot enough to loosen mortar or melt iron frames and cast iron storefronts, causing a building to collapse.

Medill’s Tribune headquarters at the time, a masonry building, was lost in the fire.

Masonry buildings with wooden roofs were vulnerable also.

Once in office, the new mayor pushed for better building codes, including a ban on wooden construction.

Sun-Times file
Publisher Joseph Medill running on the Union-Fireproof Party was elected mayor one month after the Great Fire.

But when residents, particularly German immigrants, who were moving to Chicago en masse, complained about the cost of rebuilding in brick or stone, the City Council successfully reduced the ban to the fire zone only.

“The City Council divides the city because ‘Who wants stone?'” Hunt said. “It’s usually the elites — the commercial class — that have property downtown, and people in the nicer neighborhoods who want stone. Immigrants, especially German immigrants who were kind of the majority of those coming over [then], who do not want to build brick.”

But the ability to build wooden houses outside of the fire zone led to the rapid growth of communities such as Canaryville and much of the South and Southwest sides, along with Andersonville and huge swaths of the North and Northwest sides.

Open tracts of land outside the fire zone were especially attractive.

“Much of the western part of Lincoln Park remained rural until the 1870s, when the Chicago Fire of 1871 stimulated real estate development outside the fire zone,” said a 2020 city-drafted landmark designation report on a cluster of 1880s brick commercial buildings at Halsted and Willow streets that detailed the community’s history.

“The more built-up eastern portion of the community area had been destroyed, and many residents rebuilt in areas untouched by the fire, including the areas along Halsted and east and west of the street,” the report said.

Over the next few years after the fire, the city grew lax in enforcing fireproof construction.

“The interesting thing about that debate over brick and wood is that it brought up the question — the same question we face today with vaccinations,” Hunt said.

“Like, ‘I don’t want to get vaccinated. You can do that if you want, but I’m not doing it. You want to build with stone. That’s fine. I can’t afford it. I’m building with wood and it’s my choice,'” Hunt said.

Then on July 14, 1874. during a hot, dry summer, Chicago was struck by a second great blaze, although smaller than the first one, that began near current day Roosevelt Road and Wells Street and burned northeast toward downtown. The fire stopped when it reached the new brick and stone buildings built after 1871.

The second fire incinerated 50 acres of primarily wooden buildings and residences — about 800 structures in all — and killed 20 people. But it also caused insurance companies, with the 1871 conflagration fresh in their minds, to push the city to definitively ramp up fireproof construction and improve its fire department.

“You need both fires,” said Chicago History Museum Senior Vice President John Russick. “Because if it had only been the 1874 fire, maybe it’s not big enough and it’s not critical enough.

“But I think what happens in 1874″But I think what happens in 1874 is, is the fire that burns that year burns the city that was re- built — or a big chunk of the city that was rebuilt — because [those areas had been] built basically the same way [as before the 1871 fire],” he said. “And so really you didn’t have much change.”

But change did come after the two fires. And a major one was the use of terra cotta as building cladding. The mixture of clay and sand, baked rock-hard at 2000-degree temperatures, was not only fireproof, it could be molded into ornamental forms, greatly enhancing a building’s architectural beauty.

The Northwestern Terra Cotta Company was established in Chicago in 1878. At its factory and offices located at Wrightwood and Clybourn avenues, the company by 1890 employed a veritable army of 500 people, many of them skilled artisans from Europe.

Tyler LaRiviere/Sun-Times file
In the decades after the fire, structures such as the Wrigley Building were clad in terra cotta. The material was fireproof and could be molded into ornamental shapes and styles.

The use of terra cotta formed a perfect marriage with the rise of steel framed buildings, a new technology pioneered in Chicago in the decades after the fire. Architects could create buildings with strong, weight-supporting steel skeletons and then clad them in terra cotta that could be formed in myriad architectural styles.

And for the next 40 years, cladding from Northwestern Terra Cotta and similar companies wound up on Chicago’s most architecturally significant structures, including the Wrigley Building, the Civic Opera House, the Louis Sullivan-designed former Carson Pirie Scott department store at State and Madison streets, plus countless banks, storefronts, churches, schools, homes and other buildings scattered around the city’s neighborhoods.

Sun-Times file
The former Carson Pirie Scott department store building at State and Madison

The aftermath of the Great Fire also brings to the surface the larger question of how a modern American city should look and function. Pre-fire Chicago was a rapidly growing city — and an unbridled mess in many parts of town, where quality buildings and shanties could share the same block, and humans and working livestock competed for space on wood paved streets.

The fire, at least, provided a clear slate to start anew.

“There are the big issues [after the 1871 fire] about whether we’re building the right kinds of buildings,” Russick of the Chicago History Museum said. “But also . . . America is relatively new to the idea of a big city. So, urban planning: the whole notion of thinking about what a city should look like and what kind of infrastructure is essential and, you know, city services and all of that, and uniformity of design becomes important.”

These questions helped draw Daniel H. Burnham, a 25-year-old transplant from Henderson, New York, to Chicago. He’d been here for a short while in the 1860s but left to mine gold in Nevada. By 1873, he joined with friend John Wellborn Root, 21, and the two formed what would soon become the successful architecture firm, Burnham & Root.

Sun-Times file
Architect and urban planner Daniel Burnham thought cities could be orderly and beautiful. He tested his theories as chief planner of the 1893 World’s Fair and co-author of the 1909 Plan of Chicago.

The two men were responsible for a number of important Chicago buildings in the years after the fire, such as the Rookery Building from 1889 at 209 S. LaSalle St., the late, great Montauk Block, an early — and fireproof — skyscraper built in 1883 at 115 W. Monroe St., and the 21-story Masonic Temple, at the northeast corner of State and Randolph streets, from 1892, which was later demolished.

But Burnham was also among those wrestling with the question of how to build better cities. And how can a metropolis, particularly a growing one, become a place of beauty and order?

Burnham would famously answer these questions with his historic 1909 Plan of Chicago, co-authored with Edward H. Bennett. The visionary document, marked by stunning watercolors by artist Jules Guerin, called for a host of things, including new civic buildings, harbor facilities and parks, an improved and protected lakefront, and broad, green boulevards radiating from downtown.

But the Chicago Plan, though globally influential, came almost 40 years after the Great Fire. However, 20 years earlier Burnham tested his theories on urban order as chief planner of the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition.

The world’s fair was essentially Chicago’s coming out party, a means to show the world a rebuilt city that was no longer a fire ruin, nor an untamed frontier town.

Sun-Times file
As chief planner for the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition, Daniel Burnham turned a lakefront swamp 8 miles south of downtown into a beautiful, but temporary, city.

Burnham created a 700-acre electrified city-within-a-city with gleaming white neo-classical buildings set against wide landscaped walkways.

The romantic-looking buildings were made of plaster but looked convincing enough and helped ignite the City Beautiful movement in which upstart metropolises — including Chicago — looked to classical Europe for design cues.

The World’s Columbian Exposition took in more than 27 million people and showcased a new, reborn Chicago, the likes of which were dreamed of and conceived moments after the last of the Great Fire’s blazes were extinguished 22 years earlier.

Chicago goes big after the fire

Arguably, recovering from Great Fire instilled the city with the will to build big, and if need be, wipe the deck clean and build again.

“It’s a landscape on which we continue to paint anew the idea of what Chicago should be,” Russick said.

“There is a feeling that we can rebuild bigger and better,” Hunt said.

For instance, the city in 1887 undertook the Herculean and unprecedented feat of reversing the flow of the once very foul Chicago River to keep Lake Michigan’s supply of drinking water clean.

But Chicago’s pattern of clear cutting areas to build bigger hasn’t always led to better.

In the 1960s Mayor Richard J. Daley wrecked most of the Near West Side’s Little Italy neighborhood like so much fire rubble to make room for the University of Illinois Chicago campus.

Sun-Times file
The city ripped up an Italian neighborhood in the Near West Side in the 1960s to build the University of Illinois Chicago campus.

But the neighborhood and UIC could have coexisted, as the areas around DePaul University and to some extent the University of Chicago show, had it been planned that way from the start.

And Pacyga noted whole communities on the South, West and Near North sides that were bulldozed in the 1950s and 1960s to build public housing high-rise buildings.

“And now they’ve torn them down,” he said.

But there are also times when it all seems to work. Mayor Richard M. Daley’s administration in 2009 paid $90 million for the former Michael Reese Hospital site, then razed it in what turned out to be a failed bid to win the 2016 Summer Olympics.

A collection of early and mid 20th century buildings and a noteworthy postwar landscape were lost. But now, the cleared cite is slated to be turned into a $3.8 billion mixed-use development called Bronzeville Lakefront. It will likely be the largest privately built project in the South Side’s history.

The ‘I Will’ spirit

There is a fascinating, if somewhat overlooked, subtext to the Great Fire story: That for most, the will to stay in Chicago and rebuild was greater than the desire to flee and stay gone.

“They don’t just head to [northwest Indiana],” said Russick, whose museum opens an exhibit on the blaze. City on Fire: Chicago 1871 on Oct. 8.

“They don’t go to St. Louis,” Russick said. “There is this real impulse to build right on the foundations of the city that burned. And there is something really powerful about that.”

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How the Great Fire changed Chicago architectureLee Beyon October 8, 2021 at 12:51 pm Read More »