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15 shot, 3 fatally, Monday in Chicagoon March 23, 2021 at 2:43 pm

Fifteen people were shot Monday, three of them fatally, in Chicago gun violence.

Overall, Monday was nearly as violent as the entire weekend in Chicago, when 20 people were shot, four of them fatally.

Most of the shootings were localized in the city’s West and South sides. One of the wounded was a 65-year-old woman shot in her hand in Gage Park.

Chatham homicide

Monday’s latest homicide took place in the Chatham neighborhood on the South Side. Two men were standing outside about 8:48 p.m. in the 7900 block of South Cottage Grove Avenue, when someone unleashed gunfire, Chicago police said.

A 20-year-old man was shot in the head and taken to the University of Chicago Medical Center, where he died. Another man, 62, was taken to the same hospital with a gunshot wound to the arm. His condition stabilized.

West Garfield Park murder

About 5:25 p.m., a man was killed and another wounded in a shooting in West Garfield Park. The two men were standing on a front porch in the 4400 block of West Jackson Boulevard, when a gray SUV pulled up and someone opened fire, police said.

One man, 31, suffered a gunshot wound to the back and the other man, 35, was struck in the left shoulder. Both men went to Mt. Sinai hospital, where the 31-year-old was later pronounced dead. The 35-year-old man was in good condition.

Bronzeville homicide

Less than an hour prior, two people were wounded, one fatally, in a shooting in Bronzeville on the South Side. About 5 p.m., a 24-year-old man was in the 4700 block of South Calumet Avenue, when two males fired shots at him, striking him in the torso, back and buttocks, police said. The man was taken to the University of Chicago Medical Center, where he was pronounced dead. A 47-year-old woman who was not the intended target was grazed in the leg by a bullet. She was taken to the same hospital in good condition.

Nonfatal attacks

In nonfatal shootings, a 34-year-old man was shot after an argument in Dunning on the Northwest Side. About 11:05 p.m., he was outside in the 6900 block of West Addison Street, when he got into an argument with a group of people and shots were fire, police said. He was struck in the leg and brought to Illinois Masonic Medical Center in fair condition.

Woman shot in Altgeld Gardens

Minutes prior, a 32-year-old woman was shot inside a home in Altgeld Gardens on the Far South Side. About 11 p.m., she was inside her home in the 13100 block of South Corliss Avenue, when a male she knew fired several shots at her, police said. She was struck in both legs and the torso, and was taken to Christ Medical Center in Oak Lawn where she was stabilized.

South Deering shootout

An hour prior, a man was shot in South Deering on the South Side. They were sitting in a parked vehicle about 10 p.m. in the 2500 block of East 109th Street when two people walked up to them and fired shots, police said. A 25-year-old man was struck in the face and grazed in the neck area. He pulled out his own gun and returned fire but did not strike anyone.

He was taken to the University of Chicago Medical Center in fair condition. Police said a handgun was recovered at the scene, and the man does not have a valid FOID card or concealed carry license. He was taken into custody and charges are pending.

Woman shot in Jackson Park

About 8 p.m., a woman was shot in Jackson Park near Woodlawn on the South Side. She was outside in the 1600 block of East Hayes Drive when someone opened fire, striking her in the arm, police said. The 31-year-old was taken to the University of Chicago Medical Center. Her condition was stabilized.

North Side shooting

A man was shot and critically wounded in North Park on the North Side. About 5:45 p.m., the 21-year-old was in the 3400 block of West Foster Avenue when someone opened fire, striking him in the back and neck area, police said. The man was taken to Illinois Masonic Medical Center in critical condition.

Woman shot in Lawndale

A 30-year-old woman was in good condition after she was shot in Lawndale on the West Side. She was riding in a vehicle about 2:51 p.m. in the 3900 block of West Lexington Street, when three males opened fire, striking her in the abdomen, police said. The woman took herself to Loyola University Medical Center in Maywood. She was listed in good condition.

Park Manor shooting

A 21-year-old man was shot Monday afternoon in Park Manor on the South Side. The shooting happened about 2:05 p.m. in the 6700 block of South Evans Avenue, according to police. The man suffered a gunshot wound to the arm and leg, police said. He was taken to St. Bernard Hospital in good condition.

65-year-old woman shot in Gage Park

In the day’s first reported shooting, a 65-year-old woman was shot in Gage Park. About 11:30 a.m., she was in the alley of the 5900 block of South Campbell Avenue, when she heard shots and felt pain, police said. The woman suffered a gunshot wound to her hand and took herself to Holy Cross Hospital where she was listed in good condition.

Read more on crime, and track the city’s homicides.

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15 shot, 3 fatally, Monday in Chicagoon March 23, 2021 at 2:43 pm Read More »

Make Your Own Pappardelleon March 23, 2021 at 1:31 pm

Step 1: Prep the dough

1 Prep the dough

Start with the right flour. Bauer recommends Caputo 00, which you can find at Whole Foods. “ ‘Double zero’ refers to the grind, and it’s ultrafine,” he says. “You can use all-purpose flour, but double-zero flour will give you a smoother pasta. Bread flour is also a good substitute.” Mound two cups of the flour on a cutting board, make a well in the middle, and add three egg yolks. “Good egg yolks are important, so splurge to get really fresh local eggs.” Mix the yolks into the flour with a fork until a dough forms, then let the dough sit for a few hours in the refrigerator, which yields a softer, smoother result. Bring the dough to room temperature before rolling it.

Step 2: Roll it out

2 Roll it out

On a floured surface, use a rolling pin to flatten out the dough until it’s thin enough to fit into a pasta roller (Bauer recommends the Marcato Atlas, or a KitchenAid mixer attachment). “Rollers squeeze the air out of the pasta, so you’ll want to laminate it, which means folding the pasta sheet over itself [and running it through the roller] a few times.” How do you know it’s ready? “When you drape it over the cover of a book, you should be able to read through it.”

Step 3: Cut and cook

3 Cut and cook

Slice the pasta into 3/4-inch-wide ribbons using a long knife. Then add it to a pot of generously salted boiling water and cook. “How pasta is cooked is very personal. I cook it for about four minutes, but test it by eating a piece — that’s how you know if it’s al dente enough.”

Or, Let the Pros Do the Work

Here are three more spots to pick up excellent fresh pasta.

Eataly

The pasta’s made daily at this Italian food emporium, and you’ll typically find noodles like tagliatelle and spaghetti alla chitarra. From $6.90 a pound. 43 E. Ohio St., Near North Side

Pasta Fresh

The venerable pasta shop features all manner of noodles — fettuccine, linguine, capellini, and more — in a variety of flavors, from classic egg to lemon, tomato, parsley, and even squid ink. $2.95 a pound. 3418 N. Harlem Ave., Belmont Heights

Tortello

The restaurant and pasta shop sells fresh bucatini, spaghetti, and other noodles, plus sauces and Parm. $9 a pound. 1746 W. Division St., Wicker Park

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Make Your Own Pappardelleon March 23, 2021 at 1:31 pm Read More »

Why I Love Yakameinon March 23, 2021 at 1:33 pm

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

The first time I had yakamein was from the famous Yakamein Lady in New Orleans. She learned how to make it from her mother, and her mom learned it from her mother. Her version, with hard-boiled eggs and green onions, is really simple and good. Basically, it’s a mash-up of soul food and Chinese food, kind of a New Orleans version of ramen and pho.

Growing up in New Orleans, I’d find yakamein along second-line routes during Mardi Gras and on Frenchmen Street. It’s also known as a hangover cure since it is hearty and filling. People would leave the bars and go have a cup of yakamein.

You start with the beef — in New Orleans, it’s usually the beef you’d use for roast beef po’boys. You cook it down in a broth made with beef bones and soy sauce. Some people put hoisin or oyster sauce in there as well. And then your “holy trinity” — onion, bell pepper, and celery — which you find in a lot of New Orleans dishes. The noodle is usually spaghetti, which absorbs the broth and takes on that brown color — that’s when it’s best.

When I make yakamein at Ina Mae Tavern, I use extra bones to give the broth more body and a beefier taste. I want to stay true to the original flavors. I want you to have it exactly the way you’d have it down in New Orleans.

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Why I Love Yakameinon March 23, 2021 at 1:33 pm Read More »

Know Your Ramen Styleson March 23, 2021 at 1:31 pm

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Tonkotsu

Literally “pork bone” broth, this rich, creamy style originated on the island of Kyushu, famous for its piggies. A bowl made with tonkotsu broth is usually called Hakata ramen, named for a noodle-tastic neighborhood in Kyushu’s largest city, Fukuoka.

Try it at Ramen Wasabi (2101 N. Milwaukee Ave., Logan Square). While excellent versions abound, the bowl here earns its richness with a deep and porky broth. $14

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Miso

A specialty of Hokkaido, the northernmost of Japan’s main islands, this miso-seasoned winter rib-sticker typically has ground pork and loads of bean sprouts and shredded veggies.

Try it at Ramen Misoya (1584 Busse Rd., Mount Prospect). You can choose from three regional styles: Hokkaido (rich, savory), Tokyo (light, sweet), and Ise (deep, funky). You know you want the OG. $10.90

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Shio

The name means “salt,” and this is the lightest and clearest of the three main broth styles (the other two being miso and shoyu). The basic chicken soup of ramen, it’s often prepared with a salty seasoning called tare that can be savory with dried seafood or bright with citrus juice or hot pepper (or both).

Try it at Kizuki Ramen & Izakaya (1482 N. Milwaukee Ave., Wicker Park). The yuzu shio ramen here is sunny and sharp. $13.80

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Paitan

The word means “white soup,” and it technically refers to any broth, like tonkotsu, that is cloudy with fat and collagen from long-boiled bones. But most often, it refers to broths made with chicken — all the richness, none of the pig.

Try it at Ramen Takeya (819 W. Fulton Market, West Loop). Its version is like the white chocolate of the bunch: creamy and gentle. $14

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Shoyu

This soy-sauce-based broth style can vary from gentle and sweet to dark and ­sardine-broth fishy. A lot of the more modern styles technically fall into this bucket.

Try it at Kitakata Ramen Ban Nai (1129 N. Roselle Rd., Hoffman Estates). The textbook shoyu broth highlights the terrific “hand crumpled” housemade noodles. $11.40

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Tantanmen

This style references a specific Chinese specialty: Sichuan dan dan noodles. Typically red and oily, tantanmen contains black bean chile oil, sesame paste, and ground pork — think of it as the Sloppy Joe of ramen.

Try it at Aodake Ramen (21 W. Calendar Ave., La Grange). This spot serves both the traditional (wickedly spicy and rich) as well as a vegan version made with cabbage, kale noodles, and enough creamy sesame to give its broth body. $13 ($12 for vegan)

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Tsukemen

This subspecialty, a.k.a. “dipping ramen,” has become a major thing in Japan and L.A. Thick noodles and toppings come alongside a separate bowl of deeply concentrated, salty broth, which works as a dip. (If you want to drink it at the end, add hot water.)

Try it at Chicago Ramen (578 E. Oakton St., Des Plaines). It’s the house specialty; the broth is so thick it almost jiggles. $10.95

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Know Your Ramen Styleson March 23, 2021 at 1:31 pm Read More »

Why I Love Spaghetti With Meat Sauceon March 23, 2021 at 1:34 pm

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

I have a confession: One of my favorite noodle dishes is spaghetti with meat sauce topped with melted American cheese. But before you come for me, note that I am not alone.

This is a longtime tradition in Black households, where this version of spaghetti is an ever-present side dish at cookouts, church revivals, and Sunday dinners. You’ll also find large tinfoil pans full of it at any soul food restaurant with a buffet. Why? I never thought about it until now, so I asked my mom. “It’s inexpensive and easy to make,” she said matter-of-factly, adding that it’s a staple as commonplace as macaroni and cheese, potato salad, and collard greens.

For me, the spaghetti was the perfect complement to the crispy buttermilk fried chicken, barbecue ribs, or smothered pork chops piled on my plate. A nice heap of the hearty pasta ensured I wouldn’t make a second trip to the buffet. No matter where I had it, the formula was the same: boiled noodles, tomato sauce made from scratch with ground beef and lots of fresh oregano and garlic. Some people make it on the stovetop, while others, like my mother, bake it in a large casserole dish, which seals in all the flavors. That’s always been my favorite version. In both methods, the American cheese is added when there are only a few minutes left to cook, so there’s a perfectly melted top layer of golden gooeyness.

Some may cringe at the American cheese, but as a kid, I thought it tasted like the pasta version of a cheeseburger. And who doesn’t love cheeseburgers? Melted mozzarella, Asiago, Parmesan, or provolone just don’t have the same effect. Don’t get me wrong — I’ve eaten and loved handmade pastas sprinkled with the very best cheeses at some of the world’s most celebrated Italian restaurants. But when I go home, I want soul food, and that’s spaghetti with meat sauce and American cheese.

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Why I Love Spaghetti With Meat Sauceon March 23, 2021 at 1:34 pm Read More »

Cook Like a Chef With These Noodle Kitson March 23, 2021 at 1:33 pm

A Kid-Friendly Dish: Lula Cafe’s Pasta Yia Yia

Jason Hammel’s Greek-inflected dish, based on a family recipe, has been a staple on the menu for over 20 years. The kit, which serves two, includes bucatini, feta, Parmesan, butter, garlic, and cinnamon — all the ingredients you (and your kids, since they can help) need to make the warmly spiced brown butter pasta dish. $18. 2537 N. Kedzie Blvd., Logan Square

A Date-Night Dinner: HaiSous Vietnamese Kitchen’s Chicken Pho
Thai Dang makes a mean bowl of pho, and his at-home chicken version may just become your go-to weekend warmer. The kit, which serves two, includes Dang’s famously flavorful broth, pulled organic chicken, rice noodles, scallions, and herbs, plus pickled onions, hoisin, sambal, and lime to garnish the soup to your liking. $24. 1800 S. Carpenter St., Pilsen

A Fancy Weeknight Upgrade: Daisies’ Mushroom Pappardelle
This kit, which serves four, will remind you why Joe Frillman’s fresh pasta program is such a standout. You’ll get a pound of his ready-to-cook, made-from-scratch pappardelle and a generous portion of his umami-rich mushroom ragù, which includes portobellos, porcinis, and mushroom concentrate, along with freshly grated Parmesan to finish it off. $45. 2523 N. Milwaukee Ave., Logan Square

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Cook Like a Chef With These Noodle Kitson March 23, 2021 at 1:33 pm Read More »

Noodles and Meatballs: A Global Affairon March 23, 2021 at 1:34 pm

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Vietnam

Bánh Canh Tôm Cua

Hai Yen

A mild but hearty broth anchors chewy, udon-like tapioca noodles, briny balls of minced shrimp, and shards of sweet crabmeat. $11. 1055 W. Argyle St., Uptown

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Italy

Spaghetti al Pomodoro With Polpette di Pollo

Bar Roma

A bed of housemade spaghetti in a chunky tomato sauce cradles three substantial spheres of ground chicken flecked with pistachios. $25. 5101 N. Clark St., Andersonville

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Indonesia

Mie Bakso

Minahasa

A street stall staple in Indonesia, this soup features delicate egg noodles and halal beef meatballs gently poached in beef stock fragrant with ginger and lemongrass. $6. 125 S. Clark St., Loop

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Thailand

Kuay Tiew Rua

Immm Rice & Beyond

In this Bangkok classic (commonly called boat noodles), pork meatballs, sliced pork loin, rice noodles, and water greens bob in a broth enriched with pork blood and star anise. $12. 4949 N. Broadway, Uptown

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Spain

Sopa de Albondigas con Fideos

Cafe Estrella

Mint-scented pork and beef albondigas, toasted fideos, and root vegetables lend heft to this soup from a new virtual kitchen. Cilantro, lime, and a tomato-chile broth add piquancy. $16 a quart. Order at @cafeestrellachicago on Instagram for pickup in Humboldt Park or delivery.

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Noodles and Meatballs: A Global Affairon March 23, 2021 at 1:34 pm Read More »

Five Reasons to Get Gluten-Free Noodles Even If You Don’t Have Toon March 23, 2021 at 1:35 pm

Saffron Curry Noodles

Uncooked

At this raw food restaurant, Carole Jones tosses kelp noodles (yes, the seaweed) with a creamy coconut-milk-based saffron sauce for a chilled noodle bowl with complex Indian flavors. $12. 210 N. Carpenter St., West Town; 1616 N. Damen Ave., Bucktown

Crispy Rice Noodles

Community Tavern

Joey Beato boils Thai rice flakes (which are large flat squares) to transform them into chewy, tightly rolled scrolls. A quick sear adds a slight crunch, and hearty lemongrass chicken ragù tops things off. $13. 4038 N. Milwaukee Ave., Portage Park

Pancit Bihon

Kasama

Genie Kwon and Timothy Flores dress up their Filipino pancit bihon, made with rice vermicelli, with poached shrimp and squid, sliced Castelvetrano olives, a dusting of sumac powder, and crispy chicharrón. $17. 1001 N. Winchester Ave., East Ukrainian Village

Stir-Fried Glass Noodles

Perilla

For his riff on traditional japchae, Andrew Lim stir-fries sweet potato glass noodles in tamari before tossing them in a rainbow of veggies, like mushrooms and scallions. Make it meaty with the addition of bulgogi. $12. 401 N. Milwaukee Ave., West Town

Gluten-Free Tagliatelle

RPM Italian

RPM Italian’s tagliatelle is made with a corn, rice, and tapioca flour from Italy’s Marche region. Get the hand-cut pasta in any of the pasta dishes; it’s great with the chile-flecked king crab. $20. 52 W. Illinois St., Near North Side

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Five Reasons to Get Gluten-Free Noodles Even If You Don’t Have Toon March 23, 2021 at 1:35 pm Read More »

Start the Day With These Peranakan Breakfast Noodleson March 23, 2021 at 1:35 pm

When it comes to the morning meal, Peranakans — an ethnically Chinese people living in Malaysia, Indonesia, and Thailand — don’t mess around, as demonstrated by the bold-flavored dry pan mee noodles ($14.95) at the new Peranakan restaurant Kapitan (2142 N. Clybourn Ave., Lincoln Park). Owner Victor Low breaks down this breakfast favorite for us.

Dry pan mee noodles

1. The Crunch

Imported from Malaysia, the fried anchovies “add a salty, crispy bite to the top of the dish,” Low says.

2. The Broth

Malaysian breakfast dishes often layer in flavors, and this anchovy broth adds lightly salty notes. “You can pour as much as you want into the noodles so they’re wet, or you can sip it on the side. It really puts the focus on the noodles.”

3. The Noodles

The silky wheat flour noodles are hand-pulled to order. Flat and thin, with a springy texture, they’re slicked in a double punch of soy sauce. “We use a regular soy sauce and a caramelized soy sauce we source from Malaysia that’s thicker and sweeter.”

4. The Meat

Minced pork is cooked with black fungus (“a popular ingredient in Asia that’s similar to mushrooms”), shallots, garlic, sugar, salt, and caramelized soy sauce for an umami-loaded topper.

5. The Accents

Chewy fish balls, hard-boiled eggs, and crunchy Chinese broccoli ensure that you won’t need to eat again until a very late lunch.

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Start the Day With These Peranakan Breakfast Noodleson March 23, 2021 at 1:35 pm Read More »

Why I Love Liáng Píon March 23, 2021 at 1:35 pm

Illustration by Jennica Lounsbury

Noodle obsessions? I’ve had a few, from carbonara and cacio e pepe to sesame and soba. But nothing gets me quite as slurpy as liáng pí (cold skin noodles), which I first tried at the original Xi’an Famous Foods in Flushing, Queens. I loved everything about the dish: the spring-back texture of the noodles, the slick green veggies, the loofah-like wheat gluten sponging up the sauce. And that sauce! Red and oily, hot and numbing, vinegary enough to make those veggies think they were in a salad.

I’ve found a pretty good version at Shan Shaan Taste in Chinatown’s Richland Center. But once I realized I could make a facsimile of the sauce by goosing my favorite condiment — spicy chile crisp — I began trying to re-create liáng pí at home, with a little help from the Xi’an Famous Foods cookbook.

Finding the noodle itself isn’t easy. The thing is, liáng pí must be fresh: The starch is washed from a ball of dough, which is then flattened and steamed like a thin crêpe, ready to cut into ribbons. What remains is a clump of gluten to cube. I couldn’t get fresh liáng pí at 88 Marketplace, the well-stocked new Chinese market in Bridgeport, so I went home with a variety of substitutes. The springy sweet potato pappardelle recommended by the market staff were a passable substitute, but in the end the dried dao xiao mian (knife-cut noodles) were more to my tensile taste. For the wheat gluten, the packaged version I found ended up like sodden hardtack, so I took advice from the Woks of Life blog and subbed in fried tofu puffs (the Phoenix Bean brand is fantastic). But if the noodles require creative thinking, the dressing is as easy as it gets. As I tossed it all together with a final splash of vinegar and watched the chile oil stain the noodles, I was back in Queens.

(makes 4 servings)

In a bowl, mix 1/4 cup spicy chile crisp (available at H Mart), 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil, 1 tablespoon light soy sauce, 2 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar, 1 crushed garlic clove, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook 4 cups dao xiao mian noodles (available at 88 Marketplace), following package instructions. Add 2 cups bean sprouts to the water for the last 30 seconds, then drain noodles and sprouts and cool under cold running water. Cut 6 fried tofu puffs (available at H Mart) into thirds, and peel and julienne 1 cucumber. Coarsely chop a half bunch of cilantro (include some stems). Toss everything together in a large bowl, then adjust the flavors to your liking with salt, sugar, black vinegar, and light soy sauce.

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Why I Love Liáng Píon March 23, 2021 at 1:35 pm Read More »