It’s time to get out of the house. The mask mandates are ending, and there are a lot of places to explore. Some are new, and some-like Convito Cafe & Market in Wilmette- are old favorites.

Nancy Brussat’s timing has always been impeccable. When she opened the original Convito Italiano in 1980, the market for top quality ethnic cuisine and gourmet imports was just taking off. Brussat knew that finding the right location was as important as choosing the inventory. And here again, her instincts were spot on.

No one would mistake Lake Michigan for the Mediterranean, especially in early March, but together with the Plaza Del Lago’s shopping center’s distinctive Spanish-style architecture and upscale ambiance, the setting is light years away from the endless strip malls and congested roadways that dot the contemporary landscape. Like Convito, it’s unique.

Brussat originally opted for a small space adjacent to the plaza; two years later, she moved to a larger space in the plaza itself. Four decades and multiple iterations later, Convito Cafe & Market is still spot-on.

It’s 2:30 on a wintery Wednesday afternoon when I arrive, notebook in hand. The lunch crowd has come and gone, leaving only a few stragglers enjoying a final sip or two of coffee.

No one hurries them. The laid-back pace is reminiscent of Italy or the south of France, places where a meal is meant to be savored. Both the cafe’s menu and the market’s well-stocked shelves and display cases are similarly skewed.

I talked with Nancy Brussat a week ago. We’ve known each other for years, and it was nice to catch up. Her daughter, Candace Barocci Warner, has been working with her for a long time. Warner was a good teacher, and the partnership- like Brussat’s long time partnership with her Italian mentor-has been seamless.

The second visit was all about browsing the market with an eye towards picking up a few things for dinner.There’s a lot to see, including some wonderful watercolors by Brussat’s sister Karen Brussat Butler. To be honest, browsing food and kitchen stores is one of my favorite activities, second only to browsing libraries and second-hand book shops.

I begin with the imported pastas and the frozen house made sauces, eventually opting for the thin-cut Chitarra from Abruzzo and a container of the tomato/eggplant sauce. A chunk of Parmesan Reggiano comes next, along with a pizza and a package of breadsticks.

Lasagnas are one of Convito’s specialties. The repetoire includes twelve, some vegetarian and some made with meat, poultry and/or a meat sauce. Five or six versions are typically featured. While the daily menu is available online, two versions are usually included: the Mama Mia made with mozzarella, parmesan, and a hearty meat sauce, and Grandma’s Lasagna, complete with spinach, ricotta, mozzarella, parmesan, roasted red peppers and a meat sauce.

A good selection of entrees, salads, vegetables and starches are also featured, along with baked goods made in house, breads from Bennison’s Bakery in Evanston, and ice cream from Homer’s in Winnetka.

I studied the display case. Everything looked good, but here again, I went for the eggplant, this time partnered with tomato, zucchini and olive oil in a caponata that could be eaten hot, chilled or at room temperature.

Which brought me to the wine. Most-but not all-of the options are Italian. That’s not a surprise. Pairing wine and food from the same region makes sense. Still, there are no absolutes when it comes to food. And as long as you don’t mind a bump or two, thinking out of the box can be an adventure.

Convito Cafe & Market
Plaza del Lago
1515 Sheridan Road
Wilmette, IL 60091
847.251.3654